“Great wine makes wonders and is itself one.” ….. Edward Steinberg
Being a wine writer (say those
two words fast ten times) has its good moments, and I’m grateful when they
happen. Occasionally, I have the
opportunity to taste product from wineries that are new to me and otherwise
might go inexperienced. Some is good. Some goes unmentioned in my blog. And
then – not too often – some send me into a state of wonder and joy. Such is
what happened recently when I tasted Left Bend’s 2010 inaugural release of
their Syrah.
Left Bend’s Syrah is
definitely “new world” (with no percentage of Viognier), but even unique among
“new world” Syrah wines. Fruit comes
from the Black Ridge Vineyard three miles outside of Los Gatos California in
the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA (see map). The AVA was recognized in 1981 and encompasses approximately 322,000
acres, a small percentage of which is planted with grapes. What makes wine from Santa Cruz Mountains so
interesting is the region’s many micro climates, each created by the elevation,
the side of the mountain on which the vineyard is established, its sun exposure,
soil type, the effects of fog and more. Grapes for Left Bend's Syrah grow at an elevation of 1,000 feet. The vineyard is protected from the harsh coastal winds and lingering fog to benefit from a full day of sun enhanced by the Lexington Reservoir a half-mile below.
At night, cool air spills down
the mountainside and this diurnal temperature change produces fruit ripe in
flavor and acidity. But as with all wine, the magic needs to continue at the
hands of the winemaker if the end result is one that produces joy and wonder.
In the glass, Left Bend’s 2010
Syrah is dark ruby, or what a gemologist evaluating a ruby would call “pigeon
blood.” (Animal rights activists: don’t
complain to me. That’s the term). The nose is very pleasant with notes of earth
and blackberry with hints of dark cherry and raspberry. Swirl then sniff again
and cocoa becomes evident and the blackberry more pronounced.
The taste, after all, is what
wine is all about and in that, this Syrah is most interesting. I tasted without decanting or aeration and
enjoyed squashed blackberry – jam like – and hints toward dark cherry and
blueberry. Light-medium body with seemingly smoothed tannins, Left Bend’s Syrah
had a pronounced pepper back taste. The finish produced warmth in the mouth
which at 14.4 % alcohol could be attributed to the percentage of alcohol,
though I've had other Syrahs of equal strength with no such effect. The initial taste seemed, for me, just slightly
thin though that quickly changed as the wine continued to develop in the mouth
toward its long peppery finish.
Finish however, is not
something I did with this bottle.
We all have our own definition
of what makes for excellent wine. And if there’s a secret to liking the reviews
of any writer, I think it’s finding one whose taste preference simply matches
your own. For me, balance in a wine is paramount, but not commonly achieved. Yes,
Virginia, we get it: Pinot Noir can have smoke and Chardonnay can offer buttery
vanilla. But I’m in it for the grace notes, the seductive invitation that
intrigues, mystifies and invites one to taste again. I’m intrigued by a wine
that doesn't beat my senses with a flavor mallet but instead challenges me to
discern its offerings by having them so well integrated that the sum is so much
better than its parts and therefore difficult to describe. All the elements
remained present: the black fruit, the blueberry, the pepper finish. But they
played together in a beautiful symphonic composition. For me, Left Bend’s inaugural Syrah began as
a good wine and finished as a magnificent composition and it was a wondrous
and joyful tasting experience. I haven’t
been so intrigued by a Sirah since I first tasted “Relentless” (a proprietary
blend of Syrah and Petite Sirah which
cost twice as much and has since been selected by Wine Spectator this year as one of their top 100 wines). In the meantime, I’m awarding Left Bend’s
Syrah 4 glasses, my highest rating, while waiting for Left Bend’s Syrah to be
so discovered.
If you’re intrigued enough to
invest $35, I suggest you order direct from the winery. With production limited
to 65 cases (not barrels) you’re unlikely to find this at retail.
Cheers!
……………… Jim
Follow Wine Mizer on Facebook
for mini reviews, fun facts, recipes and more.
Left
Bend Winery
12255
New Ave
San
Martin, CA 95046
* Sample was provided by
winery for review.
TECH SPECS FOR THIS WINE
Clones 877 and 99
Alc: 14.4%
TA (acidity): 6.1 g/l
pH: 3.67
Hand harvested, sorted and
destemmed
100% Syrah
100% whole berry fermentation
Punched down twice daily
100% oak cooperage (33% new [American]
67% neutral)
27 months barrel aging
100% natural malolactic
Not filtered or fined
No comments:
Post a Comment