"Wine. The intellectual part of the
meal." …. Alexandre Dumas
What’s your favorite every day
wine for Italian food? For many
Italians, it’s Dolcetto. The same wine wonderland that gives us the Nebbiolo grape
in Barolo and Barbaresco wines, and luscious romantic Amarones , happily
consumes Dolcetto around the family dinner tables of Piedmont. Unlike in the U.S. where consumers enjoy
aisles of wines from across the globe, most of the world drinks the wine of
their locale. There are seven Dolcetto appelations,
Alba (a D.O.C.) sometimes gets
dismissed by the “wine snobs” because the dolcetto grape there is relegated to
third position behind the nebbiolo and barbera grapes. And while it’s true that nebbiolo rules, it’s
also true that Elio Grasso makes excellent Barolo from the nebbiolo grape (I’ve
enjoyed it) but also treats their dolcetto with respect and care for its own
unique character. And it’s also true
that wines from this producer are well priced (this bottle $17) as is Dolcetto
generally. That’s why Italians drink it.
The Elio Grasso I enjoyed
should drink well into next year. Dolcettos, as a rule, should be enjoyed
within four years of vintage. For Italian wines, that’s an eye blink. That’s
also the wine’s charm. Dolcettos
generally have low acid, are “soft styled”, fruity (not sweet) and offer gentle
spicy aromas and hints of earthiness.
These are casual drinking, everyday wines that don’t require a critic’s
analytical dissection – just enjoyment alongside a meal. With this, they also provide the typical “old
world” push-pull of balance between fruit and earth. The challenge winemakers have with this grape
I tasted two other Dolcettos –
(both well rated) and from the Alba region. One (priced 35% higher) will go
unnamed and indeed suffered from a tannic finish that literally “burnt” the
wine’s fruit). Elio Grasso (for me) excelled
in its finish. Having limited skin
contact virtually eliminated bitterness and added to the wine’s universal
appeal. The skin of the dolcetto grape is also high in anthocyanins, so despite
limiting skin contact, the color of Elio Grasso’s Dolcetto wine is an
attractive dark ruby.
The nose, often slight in this
varietal, was strong with plum and prune and followed through on the taste with
ripe plum and some blackberry and whispered hints of earthiness. Its mouthfeel was luscious, a real tongue
coater. Tannins were evident in the finish but well managed and enjoyable. I didn’t detect any taste of almonds, common
in this varietal, but suspect that is simply my palette. For comparison, I tasted a 2013 Elio Grasso
($16) Dolcetto d’Alba and enjoyed a consistency of aroma and tastes despite the
wine being of different vintage.
I also enjoyed a 2013 Vietti
Dolcetto d’Alba ($19). For those
preferring a lighter style, this wine offers an alternative with a lighter (and
perhaps) more nuanced nose and delicate taste. With no harsh tannins (the color
is virtually identical to Elio Grasso’s) it offers high notes of cherry, but is
more singular in its profile than the lusher Elio Grasso. Not a “tongue coater,” the wine is lighter
bodied. Whether that’s a plus or a minus
is 100% a matter of personal preference.
I poured a “blind” sample of each wine for my guest. Then, on a piece of
paper, I wrote “number 2”. After she
announced her preference (which was #2 – the Vietti), I showed her the paper. I could enjoy either wine, though I preferred the
more “masculine” Elio Grasso. She
preferred the Vietti.
Still, recommendations are
expected, so here is mine: At your next
Italian meal, forgo the straw wrapped bottle of Chianti and try a Dolcetto. If it’s a dinner party, try a few different
bottles and collect opinions. Before you
know it, conversation will fill the lull between courses and your guests will
be raving later about what a great dinner party they enjoyed.
Salute!
……………
Jim
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