“Grapes are the most noble and challenging of
fruits.” ……. Malcolm Dunn, Head Gardener to the 7th Viscount
Powercourt, c 1867.
The
old saw, “The only constant is change” is probably the only thing that hasn’t changed over the decades. Malbec, originally from France, immediately
triggers thoughts today, for example, of Argentina. Whether that’s because of a
style preference or because this thin-skinned grape that demands even more heat
and sun than Cabernet Sauvignon was devastated (75%) in 1956 by a frost in
France, I don’t know. It was planted in
Argentina and has since become the country’s claim to wine fame, Mendoza being
that country’s Napa.
Rutini
wines predate all this however. The winery was started by Italian emigrant
Filipe Rutini in 1885 (then called La Rural Winery) in the Uco Valley, Mendoza.
1994 saw change continuing as the winery
(Rutini) underwent technological renovation under Nicolas Catena and Jose
Benegas-Lynch (two major forces in the Argentine wine industry and from one of
Mendoza’s oldest and most celebrated wine families) and Mariano DiPaola was
appointed winemaker.
Today,
Rutini has vineyards in five different areas of Mendoza: Maipu, Rivadavia, La
Consulta, Altamira and Tupungato (where the grapes for Encuentro are
grown). By blending grapes from
different vineyards within Tupungato, Rutini is able to take advantage of
different vineyard elevations/terroirs in
order to create the best expression of the varietal within the bottle.
In
the glass, Encuentro shows as inky purple. The nose is complex with
vanilla-caramel and cocoa powder with clove and violet. I enjoyed hints of cooked fruit, especially
plum that carried into the wine’s flavor along with violet, cassis and
blackberry. Despite all this going on, I most appreciated the wine’s balance.
While plum, blackberry and violet were distinct, they were not overpowering.
The fruit was balanced against the wine’s tannic structure and the result was
harmony in the glass. Encuentro is creamy on the palette (thanks to its 100%
malolactic fermentation) and enjoys a moderate finish that is clean thanks to
its fruit/acid balance.
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Malbecs
from Argentina have been and are, because of terroir, more fruit forward than those of France. And I’ve made no secret over the years that I
lean toward old world style wine. But I
genuinely appreciated the deft handling of fruit in the graceful manner that
Encuentro offered. Another old saw goes like this: “If it grows together, it
goes together.” Argentinians are well known for meals rich with grilled meat
and sausages. And I can’t imagine a better pairing than Encuentro and grilled
spicy sausages and beef, blue cheese and mushrooms.
“Encuentro”
means “encounter.” With a suggested
retail price under $20, this is a wine that’s worth encountering, especially if
you’re a fan of Argentinian Malbecs – or would like to encounter what it is about them that make them so popular.
Salud!
…………. Jim
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TECH SPECS:
Varietal: Malbec, 100%
Vineyard: Tupungato,
Mendoza, Aregntina
Malolactic Fermentation: 100%
Aging: 50% new
& 2nd use French oak
50% new American oak
12 Months
·
Bottle provided
as sample by publicist.
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