"Pinot Noir is more than just
another varietal; it is seductive and ephemeral and attracts a fiercely
independent, opinionated breed.” Lance Cutler, Wine Business Monthly
Some “New World” Pinot Noirs are
fruit forward enough to message your brain that the wine is a little
sweet. This 2011 Domaine Michel Juillot
Mercurey “Clos Tonnerre” Premiere Cru will definitely NOT do that. Mercurey is a village in the Cote Chalonnaise
sub-region of Burgundy and predominantly produces Pinot Noir. It enjoys its own
appellation (AOC) due to its terroir and its more quality focused appellation
laws governing the AOC.
Regarding maximum yields, for example, Mercurey more
closely resembles those regulations of the Cote de Nuit and Cote de Beaune than
the rest of the Chalonnaise. The same
limestone bed that underlies the Cote d’Or extends south into Chalonnaise, but
temperatures in the Chalonnaise are cooler and the fruit has a more brambly forest
quality to it. Mercurey wines can offer
value, and offer you a unique style rendering to round out your appreciation of
the grape’s different presentations. I found this wine offered a strong nose of
brambled cherry, and smooth, light to medium juice of fresh, light, sour
cherry. While more ageable than other Chalonnaise, Mercurey is a wine to be
enjoyed younger than the more expensive Burgundies of the Cote d’Or, though one
more year in the cellar might have been helpful taming this bottle sharp
notes. Whatever your preferences in
Pinot Noir, you will most certainly react strongly con or pro to Mercurey – and
that is the whole point of the exercise.
Tuition for your experience comes in at an ARP of $30. Should you be able to find a bottle from
either the better 2009 or 2010 vintage, snap it up for immediate enjoyment. In
either case, decant the wine, or recap the bottle and taste it again the second
day to appreciate how it softens. Strikes me as a good companion to duck breast
with cherry sauce or any sweet sauced BBQ.
Sante!
…………………… Jim
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