"Il vino fa buon sangue.” … (Good wine makes good blood). A common Italian proverb believed to
have originated in Tuscany about wine and good health, like “An apple a day….”
Barolo
is the region, a D.O.G.C. within Piedmont in northern Italy in which the
Nebbiolo grapes for this wine are grown.
Nebbiolo is grown in other areas and used in making wine. Also well-known is Barbaresco; not so well
known are wines labeled Gattinara or Langhe (and there are others). Barolo is considered the gold standard for
the Nebbiolo grape and this one from Peo Cesare (ARP now $55) is well regarded
with scores of 93 from Wine Spectator, 91 by Wine Advocate, 91 from Wine
Enthusiast and 90 by Tanzer.
Regardless,
all taste (like politics) is personal. And Nebbiolo wines can be assertive
early on, requiring time to evolve.
Young, they are tartly acidic and with gripping tannins. (This 2005, for example, could easily be
enjoyed through 2020). Early on, these wines will offer scents of tar and roses.
(Even now, I admit to finding tastes and aromas that many find pleasing a bit
confounding). Either way, as they age in
bottle and tannins balance, more fruit becomes evident: cherry, raspberry, blackberry and prune,
along with non-fruit notes of violet, truffle, tobacco and tar. Aromas of
licorice, violet and clove are common.
The
winery was founded in 1881 by Cesare Pio with vineyards near the town of Alba
where the winery itself still sits today. Combining the benefits of modern
technology with tradition, the winery produces wines considered stylistic but
traditional.
In
the glass, my 2005, for example, was of medium cherry color. Picture Pinot Noir
with orange hues - classic Barolo. As Barolo ages, its perfume enhances. I was struck by a strong nose of spicy cherry
and dried flowers. Pronounced in the
flavor was black cherry and plum. Still,
this 2005 (after 3 years aging, and a vintage from 11 years ago) had tannins up front that were lengthy and carried
into the finish. This is not “breakfast
wine.” I paired it with veal Osso Bucco,
parsnip puree and roasted and seasoned rainbow carrots and wedges of sweet
potato.
But
this is a wine you can also enjoy by itself, to contemplate over its
complexity. I find it a good companion also with cheese such as Grana Padano,
or with duck or roast goose or beef, veal or lamb. Tannins interact nicely with the fats in
these foods in a symbiotic way. Whatever
you choose, however, Barolo benefits from decanting. I fear just leaving the bottle open for a few
hours won’t do the job. And while you needn’t impress your friends with a
decanter looking more like an art project, you will benefit from even a simple one
with a large open top; one allowing the wine to be caressed by air. Respect the age of older wines, (decant
gently, forgo the blender) and let patience reward you with a wine of intrigue.
Cin
Cin!
…………….
Jim
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TECH SPECS
Grape: Nebbiolo, 100%
Vinification: Stainless steel tanks. About 20 days of
skin contact
Ageing: Medium toast French oak for 3 years:
70% in 20 to 50 hectoliters casks (a hectoliter is 100 liters, or
about 26.5 gallons), and 30% in barriques.
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