“Most of
the guests who stay here wouldn't know the
difference between Bordeaux and Claret.” ----- John
Cleese(Basil
Fawlty) Fawlty
Towers
Red wine, orange, rose
and white; dry wine and sweet, sparkling wine – each adds to the buffet of our lifestyles
that rotates with the occasion and season and the meal being served. Fruit
forward or reserved and earthy, these styles too await the matching
circumstance to show themselves at their best. And then, another category: from
what I call “safe” wines. These are not
wines to contemplate analytically. They are simply enjoyable. They’re safe
because they fit a niche that requires easy
drinking and socialization. “Safe” wines
are those that are the best choice for serving at a mixed group get together. “Safe” wines are pleasurable to drink and
serious enough so that advanced wine consumers won’t be against having a glass.
Any large get together folds in people with different palates, but what is
commonly shared is that they would like to spend time with you. That can’t be done if you spend all your time
hidden away opening bottles after looking through your racks wondering what to
open next, and then next and then…
And then there’s the
economics. Do you really want to open a Romanee-Conti for a mixed group that’s
certain to include those who wouldn’t understand it? Save those bottles for when they fit the required
circumstance. On the other hand, showing
your guests what you think of them with a $5 bottle is showing them what you
think of them.
I tasted Donati’s 2012
red blend and immediately thought it would fit nicely into both the everyday
drinking and the “safe” wine category. With an ARP of $17, (found at $14.99)
it’s affordable, one of the criteria for inclusion into this class. It’s also well made. A blend of 47% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 14% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, it is
a classic “old world” blend from “new world” California vines. Medium bodied and fruit forward, the wine
presents a pleasing taste of blackberry, plum and black cherry fruit that is enjoyable
by itself. Not jammy and not cloying,
the fruit is balanced nicely against acidity and picks up secondary character
from 19 months aging (19% new French, 3% new American and 78% neutral oak). With hints of earth, chocolate, cassis,
violet and spice, the wine offers enough substance for “serious” wine drinkers
to be able to enjoy it.
Grapes are from their
vineyards in the Paicines AVA within the larger San Benito County AVA in the
center of Coastal California. This area
has been under cultivation since its Mission Days, giving way later to wine
giant Almaden which was sold and split up in the 1980s. Although several
vineyards border the Paicines, the Donati Family Vineyards are, so far, the
only winery-vineyard brand contained
within this sub-appellation. South of San Jose and east of
I was attracted to
this bottle by its unpretentious use of the term “Claret” on the label. In fact the winemaker’s own notes state,
“Fruit forward and easy drinking by design….” Tannins are soft and rounded,
fruit is forward and evident, but not syrupy and is presented in balance. Easy
drinking, it’s a crowd pleaser. 91
points from Wine Enthusiast and awarded an “Editor’s Choice,” it also took GOLD
at the 2015 San Francisco Chronical Wine Competition. And your kids won’t need to go barefoot
because at prices under $17, you can buy them shoes and some DFW Claret and
still have some money left over for the get together.
Cheers!
……………… Jim
LIKE Wine Mizer on
facebook for mini-reviews of wine, fun crossword puzzles, suggested food
pairings and more.
TECH SPECS
Fermentation: Stainless, 100%
Twice daily punch
downs & pump overs
Alc: 13.8%
ABV
Bottled: May 5-7, 2014
Cases: 9490
Donati Family Vineyard
2720 Oakview Rd
Templeton CA 93465
877-511-9463
I just shared a bottle of the 2016 Claret and I think that all aspects of this review hold true with the 2016 vintage. Jim, thanks for the thoughts, info and insight!
ReplyDelete-Milwaukee Mike
And thank YOU Milwaukee Mike. I don't get much exchange with people on the blog and so (forgive me) have been doing more on Facebook as Wine Mizer. It's kind of you to offer a comment and your kindness is appreciated. Sante! And stay safe.
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