"What
is the USP of Mosel Rieslings? Sky-high acidity that links arms with the honey
of ripe Riesling." … Hugh Johnson OBE, The World of Fine Wine (UK)
"German
wine goes well beyond the sweet and white type, even a single region can
produce a range of styles to suit everyone. " JancisRobinson, M.W. (UK)
Fair
enough, perhaps you’re` not a fan of oysters on the half shell. But bear with me a moment and share a
discovery apart from them. Oysters here are just a reference to something else.
So if you are a fan of oysters, you’ll love the transition; and if you are not,
you’ll at least enjoy a new wine that may excite your palate. With that
agreement now binding, I need to explain that my traditional “go-to” wine for
oysters has been Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine (Sur Lie). Made from the Melon de
Bourgogne grape and coming from the Nantais region of the westernmost Loire
Valley of France, the wine is crisply dry, with threads of gooseberry, quince
and key lime melded seamlessly over a mineral base. Sometimes I think some smart oyster must have
invented these wines just so people like me would enjoy eating them. Together,
they are a symbiotic and joyful encounter. (I’ll talk more about Muscadet in a separate
post).
Problem
is, no Muscadet (remember, that’s the region, not the grape) is available at my
local oyster haunt. But they do serve a Dry Muscatel from the Jumilla region (almost
south but definitely in the eastern area) of Spain. There it is known as Muscatel and it’s made
from the Muscat grape, of which there are many varieties. Muscatel can be
vinified dry to super-sweet and the one I order is dry and also goes nicely
with oysters.
Now
comes another grape, one you would normally recoil at pairing with oysters:
Riesling! Even more alarming: Riesling
from the Mosel region of Germany! Dry
Rieslings, in Germany, are commonly enjoyed, but here, in the U.S. they’re as
common as hen’s teeth. Not to say I don’t enjoy Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese and
other styles of Mosel Riesling. But Clean
Slate’s Dry Riesling has its place too, and, surprisingly, it can work with
oysters. Its value, however, is its
ability to work with and without. It will work, for example, with those finding
a Muscadet too dry. Although not dessert
sweet, your palate will detect residual sugar in the finish (at 2.6%, it’s
close to a grapefruit) making it likely more suitable for a mixed group. The sensation of sweetness is balanced by the acidity that German Rieslings
are renowned for. This Walenda of balance works on the palate telling your
brain the wine is less sweet than it is.
The
nose is rich with scents of freshly squeezed lime juice and lemongrass softened
by floral notes. Almost everyone tasting
or talking about this wine enjoyed tastes of peach though, for me, this was
dominated by kiwi, quince, lemongrass and lime.
Crisp, mouthwatering acidity, so terroir-driven
by the slate-soil and cool-climate of the Mosel, balances the fruit and makes
for a mouthwatering finish. Notes of tart apple linger on the finish intermixed
with lime.
Grapes
are selected from throughout the Mosel. The steep, blue-slate slopes of the
Lower Mosel contribute minerality. The Middle Mosel contributes spice and the
notes of peach are a natural gift from the Upper Mosel. At 10.5% alcohol, this
is a light weighted wine, making it suitable for oysters on the half shell. But
with its stone fruit character and slight sweetness, it would pair well also
with fish, particularly if accompanied by a spicy pineapple or mango salsa. It
would also serve well with a pork roast or tenderloin.
 |
| Grilled Haddock with a spicy pineapple salsa and sprouted coconut rice with bay shrimp and cashews. |
The
old saw that white wines don’t age well needs sharpening. I’ve previously given
many examples of white wines that benefit from aging including Rieslings that
develop notes of petrol over time. But Clean Slate is not one of them. This is
100% Riesling, 100% enjoyable, but meant to be enjoyed now. Slightly sweet, Clean Slate is aptly named per the minerality natural to Riesling
grown in slate soil and in the cool climate of the northern area of Germany which
assures sufficient acidity to clean the palate and provide a mouthwatering
finish.
With
an ARP of $10 (I found it at $9. U.S.), it’s hard not to recommend this wine just for the benefit you’ll gain from its
experience. Aficionados of Muscadet may
find the wine too sweet to properly accompany oysters on the half shell, yet
find it excellent with spicy Thai, Chinese, Mexican or Indian cuisine. And for
those finding Muscadet too dry, you may have found your spiritual, white-wine
home.
Clean
Slate is a product of partnership between Moselland of Bernkastel-Kues of
Germany and Winebow, a top U.S. importer and distributor of fine wines around
the world. Moselland is the largest vineyard owner in the Mosel and one of
Germany’s top exporters of Riesling.
Prost!
……………..
Jim
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