“People like wine
with bubbles. It makes the wine come alive.” …. Rick Anderson
Sparkling wine is a large and
generic classification of wine that includes wines made from different mandated
grapes and in different methods. So
Cremant which is not Champagne is sparkling wine. So too is Cava and Sekt, as is also sparkling
wine whether labeled methode
traditionalle or Charmat or Metodo
Classico or methode ancestrale. And there’s more, but what all sparkling
wines have in common is a significant amount of carbon dioxide dissolved in the
wine until opened, the carbon dioxide then producing fizziness.
Even narrowing it down to just
Prosecco is not a “final answer” because that area too has been further delineated.
Named a DOC in 1969, the Coneglano Valdobbiadene (KOH-neh-L’YEE’AH-noh,
VAHL-dohb-BEE’AH-deh-ne) was promoted to a DOCG in 2009 in the province of
Treviso in Veneto (about 30 miles north of Venice in northeastern Italy). It is
one of two DOGC areas of production for Prosecco, the other being the smaller
Asolo DOGC near the town of Asolo. The
first written reference to Prosecco dates back to 1772. Prosecco has history.
And demand for sparkling wines has been growing rapidly in the United States
with Prosecco driving the demand. Global sales have been increasing by
double-digit percentages since 1998. It
helps, then, to know these classifications and their differences.
Conegliano Valdobbiadene
Prosecco DOCG represents
Italy’s highest quality in the Prosecco category. In
a move to simplify things, producers from Valdobbiadene have recently tended to
skip the mention of “Coneglano” on their front label calling their wine more
simply “Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore.”
Be assured, it’s the same thing. Prosecco Superiore DOCG comprises 15
hillside towns with numerous small vineyards and takes in 183 wineries. Most Prosecco
wine produced will not be identified as Superiore. The Coneglano Valdobbiadene
is a smaller area within the expanded “Prosecco Zone” and there vines are grown
not on low-lying plains covering the 20,000 hectares (about 49,421 acres) of the
expanded zone, but are grown in the smaller and steep hillside area totaling only
6,586 hectares (16,274 acres). There are
other requirements too, regarding “bars of pressure.” But let me just say that I’ve tasted both
wines (Superiore and not) and while both were delicious, you will be able to
appreciate the difference on your palate.
It is this area (the DOCG) ,
after all, that is home to Prosecco; its birthplace. The region benefits from
(mostly) stony soils, cooling Adriatic breezes and a moderate climate. The key
distinction then is not the grapes used (Glera), but where the grapes are grown. So popular was this Prosecco touristy
lubricant that, in 2008, the production area was enlarged to encompass other
provinces. The name of the grape was changed to “Glera” (its ancient name) and
in 2009, Italy registered “Prosecco” as a protected denomination of origin,
barring any other region or country from using the “Prosecco” name. Coneglano Valdobbiadene situated in the hills
between the two towns of Coneglano and Valdobbiadene is the classic zone
for Prosecco and thus was elevated to DOGC.
So “Prosecco,” like “Champagne,” is now a protected name.
So yes, there is a
difference. The sunny slopes have a
unique micro climate that benefits grape ripening. The high altitudes assure
freshness even in the hottest vintages. Constant breezes keep the vines healthy
and it is in this environment that many vines are very old, making for
concentrated fruit. And to make it even better identified, a system of crus has
been introduced into the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOGC known as Rive. This acknowledgement recognizes
the different terroirs of the 43 communes throughout the DOGC. The name of the Rive is allowed to appear on the label provided yield is below 13
tonnes per hectare (.446 per acre). Those
from the Cru of Cartizze on the steep hills of San Pietro di Barbozza, Santo
Stefano and Saccol in the commune of Valdobbiadene, for example, are highly
prized. While this, and yes there is more, may seem exhaustive, if you’re
familiar with France’s AOC regulations, you should already appreciate the
similarity.
Vineyards on the hilly area
requires hand picking. Even vine pruning cannot be mechanized because the steep
incline cannot be accessed by machine.
But hand harvesting assures better selection. And the steep incline of
these hills, with their southern exposure, also assures good water drainage
during abundant spring and summer rains.
Prosecco can be Brut (RS of
0-12 g/l), Extra Dry (12-17 g/l) or Dry (17-31g/l) with Brut now being most
popular. And it can be Spumante (meaning sparkling) or Frizzante (meaning
fizzy) or Tranquillo (meaning still). Spumante may be sub-classified also as
Brut, Extra Dry or Dry. And Superiore refers only to Spumante. There are even
vintage Proseccos, though it’s unlikely you will find them here. But all
Prosecco must be made with a minimum of 85% native Glera grape. 15% may come
from indigenous Verdiso, Bianchetta, Perera or Glera Lunga or the international
varietals of Chardonnay or Pinot (Bianco, Grigio or Nero).
Unlike Champagne, Prosecco is
usually produced using the Charmat method. Usually. There is a “Col
Fondo” which is re-fermented in the bottle, but not disgorged, leaving the wine
on its lees (like “pet nat”). But, as a rule, Prosecco’s second fermentation is
in tank. Yes, it is a less expensive method. And no, it is NOT an inferior
technique. In fact, it’s ingenious - for this grape of this terroir. Prosecco
is all about freshness, about the fruit.
If you’re committed to a sparkling wine that has pronounced autolytic
character, perhaps stick to Champagne (or try a Rive or Col Fondo Prosecco. But
for me, there is nothing better than boating on calm water under blue skies
with a snack of chilled but previously grilled shrimp, crudité and a glass of
Prosecco. It’s a celebration of
freshness and joyous carefree days.
Writing a blog for an
international audience is difficult. For some (hopefully not too many) this has gone into too much
detail while others will ask why I’ve left so much out. Let me simplify: All things green are not grass. All things
Prosecco are not DOCG. Look for the DOCG strip on the bottle. It will appear on
the neck. Look for the name Conegliano and/or Valdobbiadene. Then look for the
term “Superiore” after Prosecco.
 |
| Getting ready to taste several wines |
Recently, I tasted several
wines from this DOCG. One absolutely blew me away. 100%
Glera, it was Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Rive de Collato
2015 from Borgoluce from vines grown on glacial soil of marl and sandstone.
Delicate and elegant. Seashell on the nose, hints of wisteria and acacia. A
little autolytic. Others I tasted
offered notes of wet sand, peach, almond, lemon grass and aromas of oyster
shell, with clean acidic finishes, or sweet to dry with floral notes, from sour
to bright and zesty. But whatever the wine, there was a sense of place to these
sparkling wines. A uniqueness my palate understood as excellent…. as “best of
class.” Even better: I understand the
latest vintage is expected to be just as good.
Salute!
…………… Jim
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