“If you want to start an argument in the wine world – and
believe me, it’s not hard to do – all you have to do is mention the word
terroir.” …. Eric Asimov
And so we continue with
the issue of terroir.
I
was enjoying a glass of Cabernet Franc when my imaginary friend stopped by. Polite as I raised to be, I asked if he would
like to have one too. He declined, saying Cabernet Franc was not his wine of
choice. Too soft, too light, too thin he said. He preferred a wine of more
structure and with more grip, like Cabernet Sauvignon. I found that
interesting, because it was Cabernet Franc (along with Sauvignon Blanc) that
gave birth to Cabernet Sauvignon, but never mind. I didn’t mention it. I poured him a glass of
wine away from the table and asked him to taste it. I didn’t disclose it was
Cabernet Franc. 100% unblended, pure Cabernet Franc. Dark and foreboding in the
glass. Serious stuff. I’m not being
facetious. This wine is dense, silky,
rich and deep. But I had promises to
keep. I needed to finish this exercise
in terroir. If ever, there was a good
opportunity to do so, this Cabernet Franc from Raats Family Vineyards would
allow me to do so.
Raats
Family Vineyards are in the Stellenbosch District, south-western South Africa,
about 25 miles east of Cape Town. The Atlantic Ocean is west, Walker Bay south. Although
soil types vary within the district, and the district is divided into
sub-regions (called wards), the overall climate is Mediterranean. Summers can
be hot with abundant sunshine. Generalizations, however, are dangerous. Many
producers vinify fruit from vineyards throughout the area. Further north,
summers are just slightly warmer than Bordeaux. Prominent mountain ranges run
throughout Stellenbosch, offering` a range of altitudes, aspects and soil. The
mountains also help channel wind through the vineyards providing respite from
the morning’s hot sun.
That
Stellenbosch produces Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz (Syrah) is an indication of
the District’s overall warm conditions. That it also produces Chenin Blanc
(called “Steen” locally) is an indication of the area’s diverse growing
conditions. But whether you compare the
Chenin Blanc or the Cabernet Franc of South Africa to that of France’s Loire
Valley, you’re certain to taste the difference.
Which style you prefer is not important (to me). What is important is that you know of it and
what contributes to each style’s uniqueness.
As
with all wineries that come to mind, Raats offers several labels within the
same varietal. Pictured here is their entry label (a 2011) retailing at $33.99.
One sip and you know something different is going on in your glass. Viscous,
dark fruit overlaid with a layer of dark chocolate. First impression: black cherry,
lots of cassis, some dried herb. This is
somewhat like, more than a passing relationship to – Cabernet Sauvignon. Now
you understand how Cabernet Franc was the parentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and
where the latter inherited some of its characteristic from the former.
All
of Raats’ Cabernet Franc is grown within Stellenbosch, all of it upon the
decomposed dolomite granite soil of mountain foothills. Wine produced from these vines offer good
acidity and minerality. The wine has body like a Cabernet Sauvignon and some
grip, yet interestingly smooth tannins – a nice balancing act. Black cherry and plum, a note of
tobacco. If this is Cabernet Franc (it
is), it is unlike any other you have had (assuming you don’t regularly enjoy it
already). Whether this varietal grown
under these conditions is better than, for example, the Cabernet Franc of
California or Washington State or New York or France’s Loire Valley isn’t even
the question. Tasting the differences is the
answer. The question is which style do
you prefer? However you answer, you’re
right.
Gesondheid!
……………………….
Jim
**
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TECH SPECS FOR RAATS 2011 CABERNET
FRANC
Varietal: Cabernet Franc 100%
Soil: Decomposed dolomite
granite
Age
of Vines: 18 – 25 years (as
of 2011 Harvest)
Trellised,
No Irrigation
Ageing
Potential: 7 – 10 Years with good
conditions
Vineyard
blocks are hand-picked. Hand sorted three times in the cellar, crushed and cold-soaked
on the skins for 5 days, basket pressed and allowed malolactic fermentation in
steel. Aged 18 months in (25% new, 25 second, 25 third and 25% fourth) French
Vicard and Mercury oak barrels. Not fined and not filtered.
ALC: 14%
Acidity: 6.0 g/l
Ph
(at Harvest) 3.45
RATINGS: 92 Robert Parker
90 Wine Spectator
90 Wine Enthusiast
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