“Grapes are the most noble and challenging of fruits.”
Malcolm Dunn, Head Gardener to the
7th Viscount Powerscourt, c 1867
Called Cot in much of western France including
the Loire Valley, and known as Auxerrois
in Cahors (southwestern France and the spiritual home of Malbec), it was known
as Pressac in the Libournais (near Saint-Émilion and Pomerol) and widely used as a blending
grape in Bordeaux. But it was Argentina
that brought this grape forefront to the world’s stage so that it is now universally
known as Malbec. It is Argentina’s most widely planted black grape taking up
more than 76,500 acres across the country, about 70% of which is planted within
the province of Mendoza.
But
Mendoza is a huge province, with elevations ranging topside at 22,831 feet down
to the semi-flat lands of the east. Lowlands have very hot summers and warm
nights in the north with evenings being cooler in the south. Diurnal swings can be as much as 36 degrees Fahrenheit
in some areas of Mendoza. Proximate
rivers and their tributaries (there are several) affect growing conditions as
does the vineyards’ altitude. And
although Malbec was brought to Argentina in 1868, it wasn’t until recently that
producers matched grapes to local growing conditions.
Achaval-Ferrer
and Alta Vista led in pioneering single vineyard Malbec; Malbec that displays a
single vineyard’s unique typicity. In fact, such became the core philosophy,
along with minimalist intervention, of Achaval-Ferrer production. Emphasizing single-vineyard production within
Mendoza is risky business. The province is known for hailstorms and entire
crops can be lost in a day. A fearsome hot, dry wind (known as the “zondra”)
while keeping vines dry and well aerated, is also capable of destroying crops upon
flowering. For this reason, it is common in the province to produce unblended
Malbec from several vineyards.
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| Bottles at the sampling table |
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| Comparing two and making notes |
Achaval-Ferrer,
founded in 1998, has had multiple wines listed on Wine Spectator’s “TOP 100” list. It is Argentina’s first ever
recipient of Decanter’s “5-Star Award”
and for three consecutive years was Wine
Enthusiast’s “Winery of the Year.” More important, to me at least, is the
winery’s consistent history of high scores. Looking back ten years, no Malbec
has been rated under 90, with most averaging in the mid-90s. What’s that quote
again? “The best predictor of what
someone will do is what they have done.”?
Well, understandably, when I was invited to a tasting of Achaval-Ferrer
wines, I eagerly accepted. Here’s the take on my favorites:
Achaval-Ferrer Mendoza Malbec 2014 (SRP $24.99). 100% Malbec sourced from vineyards throughout
Mendoza. Robert Parker was impressed enough to award this wine 91 points, and I
was impressed too. Careful vineyard management and low yields with very little
intervention (more on this later) and selecting the best grapes results in a
wine tasting higher than priced. My first impression? “Smooth.” Tannins are wrapped in silk and glide across
the palate with notes of black and red cherry, raspberry and violet. The presentation of this wine is both
aromatic and on the palate with delicious fruit that is balanced and not jammy.
Rich mouthfeel but with enough minerality and acidity to leave a clean and long
finish. If this is “entry level” no wonder Achaval-Ferrer is referred to as “Argentina’s 1st Growth.”
Achaval-Ferrer Finca Bella Vista 2011 (SRP $140). Wine
Enthusiast awarded it 92 points. I would have awarded more. Suckling gave it a 98. Parker came in with 95
and Tanzer a 94. 100% single-vineyard (Perdriel) Malbec within the Lujan de
Cuyo in the upper Mendoza valley at an elevation of 3,200 feet. This is
Mendoza’s most traditional quality region. In fact, it is known locally (along
with Maipu) as Primera Zona (first
zone). 100 year old vines. This is one
of two Achaval-Ferrer Malbecs you want to taste if you want to experience how
wondrous Malbec is capable of being, or if you want to give a special gift to
anyone who thinks they know Malbec.
Full-bodied and with a luscious mouthfeel, this wine is decadent in its
depth. The finish is voluptuous and
long, preceded by seductive aromas of blackberry, licorice and violet that
carry into the taste along with a note of graphite adding to some dust on the
palate. The aroma is subtly overlaid
with a hint of mocha. Concentrated but elegant, it’s Malbec but at a different
level. There’s an interplay of
minerality and acidity to fruit and freshness that is a joy to the palate and
commands continued sips to understand. Dense and concentrated, yet smooth and
silky and with freshness, there is a tension to this wine that mystifies and
intrigues. 
Achaval-Ferrer Finca Altamira 2012 (SRP
$150). Another single-vineyard wine (La Consulta) within the Valle
de Uco (Uco Valley) of Mendoza. Valle de Uco is Argentina’s rising star. Cooler
weather, very poor soils with good drainage and a continuous breeze make for
healthy vines with low yields – those used for this wine being grown at an
elevation of 3,444 feet. Old vines producing concentrated fruit, it was hard to
accept, at first taste, that this was 100% Malbec. Rich and medium ruby in the glass, the nose
was more reserved than Bella Vista with notes of blackberry and black cherry.
Its rich flavor of cassis had me question if this was a Bordeaux blend! A seamless composition with feminine floral
notes balanced against masculine expresso and a hint of leather contrasted
against black plum fruit. Balsamic, licorice, dark chocolate. Complex, elegant,
graceful. I really didn’t know Malbec
could be this good. Wine Advocate awarded it 98 points / 95 from Wine Spectator
and a Wow factor from me that made tasting this wine a memory to last a
lifetime.
The alluvial
and sandy stony soil of Mendoza, the hot and dry wind of zonda blowing down
from the west, protection and isolation created by the Andes and the lack of abundant
rainfall (but with enough water from rivers to irrigate as needed) lend natural
conditions to growing healthy vines. Pesticide and spraying for disease is
little needed. So while Malbec may have been born in France, it found a home in
Argentina. And America (Argentina’s top purchaser of the varietal) seems to
prefer it. In fairness, the Malbec of Argentina may be a different clone from
that of Cahors. It has smaller, tighter bunches and smaller berries.
But
what you do – or don’t do - with the
grape is important too. Achaval-Ferrer’s vines are ungrafted and old and grown
at high elevation in excellent terroir. Low yields produce concentrated and vibrant
fruit from berries already smaller than their cousins in France. Achaval-Ferrer uses no enzymes, adds no sugar
(chaptalization) and no corrections are made by adding acid. There is no
fining, no filtering. What there is, is New World fruit expressive of terroir and New World innovation but
married respectfully to Old World acid-driven, elegant, structured and balanced
wines that are so eager to be enjoyed with food.
Achaval-Ferrer
makes several other wines. I sampled also a
100% Cabernet Sauvignon and a blend
(Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) labeled “Quimera” and suggestively priced at
$24.99 and $34.99 respectively. Regarding Suggested Retail Price (SRP), let me
mention that looking online for Bella Vista and Altamira, I noticed that prices
varied significantly and lower than the SRP stated– nearer the $100 mark.
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| Manuel Louzada (R) and the Wine Mizer. |
I sat
next to Manuel Louzada, head of global winemaking for Achaval-Ferrer, and we
talked awhile about his wines. I commented that I have enjoyed Malbec for some
years more than the average age of persons in the room and that I found his
wines particularly special; mysterious and seductive. I light heartedly but sincerely mentioned that
his wines were something like a beautiful woman appearing in lingerie instead
of being nude. There was a mystery to these
wines. Not everything was obvious. Well,
I am an old man, and hopefully that didn’t come out too old and dirty. He
laughed, and I think he understood. In
either event, I followed up with referring to him as “The Michelangelo of
Malbec.” I meant both those comments
though you won’t find either being used in any wine study course. As Malcolm Dunn said “Grapes are the most
noble and challenging of fruits” and Manuel and his team at Achaval-Ferrer have
indeed mastered the challenge. Perhaps that last comment says it best.
Salud!
………………
Jim
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