“Wine is like many of the fine experiences in life which take
time and experience to extract their full pleasure and meaning.” ― Douglas Preston, Crimson
Shore
Quick. Don’t blink. Name a
wine grape associated with Sicily. If
you said Nero d’Avola, we should share a glass sometime because that has
typically been the grape of my thought as well when thinking of Sicilian red
wine, and why not? Wine made from this
grape offers deep color, satisfying body and sweet-cherry fruit contrasted with
some earthiness, a quality of tartness and generous tannins. And we’re not the
only ones to so enjoy it. In Sicily, it’s their most consumed and planted red varietal. What could possibly be wrong?
Well, unless you’re from
Sicily or have traveled extensively throughout the island, you may be unaware
that many people refer to Sicily (in wine terms) as being a “continent” instead
of an island. It is Italy’s largest
region, 1000 square miles larger than Tuscany.
It’s super productive, being surpassed only by Veneto. And in terroir and terrain, it’s extremely
varied. Mount Etna offers elevation and,
of course, volcanic soil and congealed magma in an alpine climate. Near the
coast, sea breezes cool the area which inland can be boiling hot warmed by
winds from Africa, though at higher elevations diurnal differences are helpful
cooling grapes grown at high altitude.
So what could possibly be
wrong? Sicily’s rich history of
viticulture, the popularity of Nero d’Avola there, the influx of Sicilian
immigrants to the U.S. and the wine’s eminent compatibility with red sauced
dishes (themselves popularized and accepted here) made the wine popular in the
U.S. And with Nero d’Avola being
Sicily’s most planted grape throughout many differing terroirs, emphasis turned
to volume over quality in order to meet demand.
Unlike the large D.O. areas of Spain (Rioja for example), and the
well-known region of Bordeaux, Sicily’s DOCs are not uber recognized. Nero
d”Avola became Nero d’Avola from wherever in Sicily. Blend that reality with the emphasis on
quantity over quality and you have a situation similar to that of other
varietals that waxed and waned.
The turning point came in the late
1980s when Planeta and Regeleali wineries chose to become innovators by matching local soil types to
both native Sicilian wine varietals and international grapes. Planeta now has wineries throughout different
areas in Sicily so as to take full advantage of being able to vinify grapes
soon after being picked from the best terroirs.
I had an opportunity to meet with Alessio Planeta, chief winemaker of Planeta and
taste several of his wines. In that
experience, I enjoyed tasting another indigenous Sicilian grape, as old as
winemaking history, and yet new to me. It’s impact upon Nero d’Avola when
blended was amazing, as it was when vinified alone. Here are my takes on the tasting.
Frappato, DOC Vittoria 2015. SRP $22.00. From Planeta’s
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| Wines at the ready for tasting |
Dorilli
Winery in the Vittoria DOC (mid-point between SE and S-central Sicily on the
coast) where it grows best in Vittoria’s flat, red sandy soil. Cherry and
strawberry on the nose. Reminded me of a young Gamay, though less rustic. Could serve slightly chilled. Silky texture. Light tannins. Tart notes that recede and then
reappear on the palate make this wine fun and easy drinking. Fresh and floral
with aromatics of rose and citrus. Some balsamic on the palate. Nice acidity
makes it food friendly.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2014.
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| You may, as I did, find various vintages at your local retailer. |
Dorilli
Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2014. SRP 33.00. Same varietals. Same vintage.
Same winery in the same area. But this wine is
from selected vines and the blend changes to 70% Nero d’Avola and only 30%
Frappato. Grapes undergo 21 days maceration (instead of 14) on the skins. More focused, somewhat dressier and more complex.
The nose incorporates cocoa overlaid above the red cherry, strawberry –
emphasis on the cherry. Cerasuolo means “cherry like,” after all. Cerasuolo di
Vittoria had been a DOC since 1973 but was promoted to DOGC in 2005
acknowledging that these wines were indeed a showcase for Sicily. Planeta has
consistently demonstrated the potential quality of this wine style, from vines
grown in red, sandy and limestone soil as opposed to others in this large
delineated area composed mostly of clay.
Cerasuolo
di Vittoria DOCG 2007. SRP $24.00.
60% Nero d’Avola, 40% Frappato – as in the 2014. These blends are
ageable and tasting this bottle demonstrated that fact. Earthy and figgy on the
nose, then fading to allow the fruit on the palate to come forward: red
berries, strawberry, a hint of ginger. Complex for a wine at this price point.
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| Wines tabled for re-tasting. Always a good idea, |
Nocera
Sicilia DOC 2015. (To be available soon). Another indigenous
grape, Nocera grows only in Sicily’s northern (Messina) area. The grape can be
very sweet when ripe without dropping acid, making it ideal for growing in
areas of scorching heat. Thanks to its
thick-skinned berries, it has prominent tannins and can make ageable,
structured wines with some weight. This
sampling was 100% Nocera, 100% different and 100% enjoyable. Medium bodied,
dark fruit flavors, leather and spice. Intense aroma of black cherry with some
kirsch. Tannins well managed. Planeta
hand harvests and then further selects grapes at sorting tables in the winery.
Nero
d’Avola Nocera Sicilia DOC 2014. SRP $26.00.
The Nero d’Avola adds cherry and
complexity to the blend which matures 4 months in third and fourth use
barrique. Starting out ripe and rounded,
it builds some grip. From the La Baronia
Winery on Capo Milazzo.
We moved on to tasting unblended Nero
d’Avola DOC starting with the 2012 and moving back through 2011 and 2010. All
are produced in Planeta’s Bounivini Winery in Noto (southeastern Sicily). All are 100% Nero d’Avola, but there are
minor differences in both maceration and maturation, so they are noted.
Noto
Nero d’Avola DOC 2012. SRP $26.00. Aroma of chocolate covered plums. Faint earth
that recedes into red fruit that carries into taste. Slight volatile acidity,
but not obstructive. 24 days maceration on the skins/aging 10 months in second
and third use oak.
Santa
Cecilia Noto DOC 2011. SRP $45.00.
As above, but more earthy on the nose. Some volatile acidity, but not
obstructive. 21 days maturation, 14 months aging using second and third use
oak.
Santa
Cecilia Noto DOC 2010. SRP $45.00. Grab it, grab
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| Alessio Planeta (L) and the Wine Mizer |
We finished tasting over lunch with a
vertical tasting of Planeta’s Santa
Cecilia Nero d’Avola. This label (Santa Cecilia) is what to look for if
you want to know what Nero d’Avola is capable of achieving at bargain price
points. The vintages tasted were:
2011: A
youngster: still bright with plum, berries, wild strawberry, citrus and a note
of carob. Balanced and elegant with a rounded finish. 94 points Wine
Enthusiast, 90 Wine Spectator. With an ARP of $24.
2007: A little earthy and herby with garigue, ripe
blackberry, plum and dark cherry. Wine Enthusiast 92 points. ARP about $31.
2005:
Wild cherries and red
berries, plump but balanced with seamless fruit. Restrained and elegant with contrasting
herb notes, expresso and dark chocolate. 91 points Wine Enthusiast. ARP $39 –
if you can find it. Worth the hunt.
Conditions in Sicily are so favorable
to viticulture, so long as respect is given to matching local conditions to the
specific varietal, that “almost organic” farming is assured. Planeta, a leader
in doing this has also been active in working with the “SOStain” project that
certifies sustainable winegrowing, and in working with the Italian Ministry of
the Environment to study ways of reducing water usage and wineries’ carbon
footprints.
None of this, though laudable and
important, does anything toward helping consumers become more familiar with
Sicily’s DOCs. Keeping current in the
changing world of wine (Spain is even now considering changes to their system
of delineated designations) can be a time consuming effort. A simple approach, at least regarding Nero
d’Avola as a varietal or in a blend could be as simple as looking for the word
Planeta on the label.
Salute!
………………. Jim
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