“It is not our differences that
divide us. It is our inability to recognize, accept, and celebrate those
differences.” …… Audre Lorde
Achaval-Ferrer doesn’t seem particularly Irish, but it
certainly helped me elevate my St. Patrick’s Day meal of asparagus soup (it’s
green - such is expected) and the not-so-really Irish Corned Beef & Cabbage
traditional plate with the aid of their (2012) “Quimera” Bordeaux Blend from
Mendoza Argentina. It’s 24% Cabernet Franc, 16% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon,
2% Petit Verdot and 50% Malbec. Each of these grapes is allowed in
Bordeaux blends, though seldom are all used. And while France is the original
home of Malbec, Argentina has since become the area of choice among consumers
worldwide.
I enjoy both styles, but there’s no denying the finished
wines are different. Think Pinot Gris
and Pinot Grigio, or Syrah and Shiraz.
Same grapes, but different wines.
Malbec from France (sometimes called Cot or Auxxerois there) generally
has more structure and firmer tannins. Within the terroir of Argentina however, the grape yields a wine that is
softer, more velvety and fruit forward.
Quimera is a Bordeaux blend for those with a bent toward “new world”
character, but who still appreciate “old world” essence. The wine offers a slightly fruit forward
profile but without being jammy. It also accomplishes this without being
aggressively dry or tannic. A nice and
balanced mid-point.
Deep purple in the glass, the nose offers cassis, green
pepper (from the Cabernet Sauvignon), and notes of mixed dark berries in bitter
chocolate. Silky in the mouth, but with just enough grip to be pleasant, the
wine offers a hint of rosemary with layers of blue and blackberry with some
black pepper spice and red cherry that announces itself as you slurp air
through the wine. I’ve tasted and written about Achaval Ferrer wines before and
remain impressed throughout their line. From entry to top label, Achaval Ferrer
produces value at each price point, making wines that can be enjoyed for
special occasions or everyday enjoyment. A 2012 ”Finca Altamira” (my favorite)
is a single-vineyard Malbec by Achaval Ferrer and retails for about $115. But they also produce a 2015 Malbec (rated 91
points by Robert Parker) and available retail for just $24.99.
Check out the photo of the bottle’s back label. Any winery that provides such detailed information
on the back label, instead of marketing foo-foo, is obviously very dedicated
and proud of what they put inside the bottle. The
Cabernet Franc and Merlot are from their vineyards in Tupungato at an elevation
of 3445 - 3600 feet. Cabernet Sauvignon
(old vine) is from the Medano vineyards (2400 – 2625 feet) and the Malbec and Petit
Verdot from Medrano and the Lujan de Cuyo (3150 – 3400 feet). Good sun but with cooling breezes and occasional
cloud cover allow for slowly ripening fruit with delicious ratios of acid to
sugar. Malbec, in particular, can
produce a wine that is flabby and under structured when vines are given too
much sun.
Grapes were hand harvested from March 7 to March 21, 2012 and
yields were restricted to 1.3 tons per acre.
Put in terms that we can all appreciate, it takes two vines to produce
enough juice for one bottle of Quimera.
In a nod to “old world” winemaking, Quimera is fermented in cement tanks
(with pump overs for maximum extraction).
Aging is 12 months with 60% in one year French oak and the balance in
new French barrel.
Quimerais $34.99. It earned 92 points from Wine Spectator, 90 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Vinous, and 17.5 (out of 20) from Decanter. It’s always
reassuring to know that one’s impression is shared by others considered experts
in the field. But for me, the decision
was easy. One taste and I recognized that this was a classy but classic
Bordeaux.
Salud!
…………Jim
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TECH SPECS FOR QUIMERA
ALC: 14.5%
pH: 3.7
(Total)
Acidity: 6.71 g/L
Brix at
Harvest 25
Vine
Training: Vertical shoot
positioning, 1.7 – 1.8 meters high (5.57 – 5.9 feet)
Winemakers: Santiago Achaval; and Roberto
Cipresso
Production: 7,212 cases
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