“In wine, there's truth.” …
Pliny the Elder
Well, not
always. But truth did ultimately win out
when (in 1994) what was thought to be Merlot in Chile was actually
Carmenere. This is thanks to Professor
Jean-Michel Boursiquot of the Montpellier School of Oenology who suspected wine
from these grapes produced more than just a spicy clone of Merlot. Later, DNA testing proved him right. Carmenere was brought to Chile after phylloxera
destroyed much of Europe’s vineyards, but it was brought over as cuttings of
what was thought to be Merlot.
Carmenere was not
replanted to any extent in France. Growers found its late ripening habit
inconvenient for a grape that was used in blending. And Carmenere vines were subject to Odium, a
fungal disease not terminal to the vine, but destroying its grapes.
In their new warmer
home with a Mediterranean climate, these cuttings thrived. And so - or so it was thought - Carmenere
was extinct. Flash forward about 100
years and “we know it ain’t so” and I’m delighted for it. Carmenere is softer than Cabernet Sauvignon,
but it has more attitude than Merlot. I've heard it referred to as “Merlot on steroids.” As with all wine, there are great and not so
great examples of the varietal, but I suppose remembering that reference can be
helpful.
This Casa Silva
Cuvee is the winery’s entry label. ARP
is about $15. The winery is 5th
generation family owned, having started over 100 years ago producing wine from
their estate vineyards in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, a D.O. (Denominacion de Origen) within the Rapel
Valley, itself within the Central Valley Region of Chile. Casa Silva produces several varietals, but
even within their Carmenere line, you might select a Reserva, Grand Terroir or
even a Micro Terroir. The cuvee is a
blend of grapes from three of their estates and a good introduction to
Carmenere at a very modest cost.
Carmenere pairs
well with smoked, grilled or roasted beef or lamb. It gets even better with
dishes seasoned with oregano, rosemary, thyme, garlic or black pepper and
prepared with tomatoes, olives, mushrooms, eggplant and onion. It’s a natural with middle-eastern meatballs
and lamb kabobs or empanadas with green olives.
Seared tuna works surprisingly
well. But Carmenere is so food friendly
and versatile it works with many dishes: There’s a smokiness to some Carmenere
that makes it pair wonderfully with a spinach, bacon and blue cheese salad. I like it with roasted Mediterranean vegetables:
some slow cooked eggplant in a tomato sauce with onion, zucchini and bell
peppers.
This bottle came
to my rescue as a pairing with a filet of grass fed beef over a bed of
caramelized onions and shitake mushrooms.
I’m fine with a Cabernet Sauvignon (in fact, Cab is the most widely
planted grape in Chile), but my “sweetie” often complains of Cabernet Sauvignon
being too tannic. As a compromise, I
often serve Merlot on such occasions.
But on this occasion, I increased the ante, yet not so much as to
attract attention. I bet with the Carmenere (Chile’s 5th most
planted wine grape) and won. Not as
tannic as Cabernet Sauvignon, but with more attitude than Merlot.
WHAT TO EXPECT
FROM THIS BOTTLE:
Aromas of ripe,
soft, juicy black fruit. A touch of black pepper accents black raspberry. These notes carry to the palate, but hold the
wine in your mouth a moment and enjoy developing tastes of red fruit. The meld of black raspberry, spice and floral
notes on the nose is enough to win over most tannic adverse people, but the
smooth and supple texture of this wine is a certainty to close the deal.
Good on James
Suckling for unabashedly awarding this wine 93 points. Most wines priced at this budget friendly
level are rarely so highly awarded. I
found it at $12.99, making a non-prejudicial opinion even more difficult. But good wine speaks its own worth and while
I’ve had more complex Carmenere, I’ve not had it at under $15. It’s really as
simple as that. And if there is any disappointment, it’s in Carmenere not being
more appreciated. As Malbec is
associated with Argentina, I think Carmenere could do with a better public
image associated with Chile. Were it not
for Chile, there would be no more Carmenere (1).
Salud!
…………… Jim
(1) Carmenere is
now grown in California, Australia and others areas, but these are from
cuttings and grafts from Chile, so, fairly, Chile it can be said, saved
Carmenere. Interestingly, Chile, thanks
to the natural barriers of the Pacific Ocean on the west and the Andes on its east,
enjoys being phylloxera free.
Produced &
Bottled By: Vina Casa Silva S.A.
Variety: Carmenere
Certified Sustainable
ALC: 14%
Imported By: Vine
Connections, Sausalito, CA.
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