“It’s sex in a glass, so seductive, it’s hard to say no.” …Madeline Triffon Master Sommelier
She was speaking about Pinot Noir. And I can think of no other varietal that so
flames the passion of oenophiles. Last
year, while pouring wine at an event, this wine (2014 vintage) was one of five
I was assigned to serve and was quickly tasted out. No wonder.
I love Pinot Noir from Oregon. Taste-wise, it often strikes me as a mid-point
between the fruit of California and the earthiness of Burgundy. Same grape. Different
juice. Though Oregon has, in parts,
somewhat similar terroir to that in Burgundy, it’s different enough to make the
difference that your palate, on occasion, wants. In fact, Burgundy itself is different enough even
within Burgundy - given all is climats
- to make for different wine. So, while
I enjoy all three – counting Burgundy as one - (and those from New Zealand which
I didn’t but should have mentioned), that little difference of the mid-point is
what makes the Pinot Noir of Oregon so fun.
Tasting this wine, you
wouldn’t know it is Archery’s entry
label. It’s a powerful package. Subdued yet present fruit, not as forward as
California, less elusive than Burgundy – that mid-point I referred to. Aromas of violet with hints of chocolatey
plum, black licorice and coffee. Cherry (it’s Pinot Noir after all) and blackberry
on the entry. But the cherry is more black than red and it’s briary, weighting
the tone.
Grapes are estate grown and
from six vineyards; five within the Dundee Hills sub-AVA and another within the
Ribbon Ridge sub-AVA of the Willamette Valley. Vines are densely planted on
soil of a volcanic and marine sub-base limiting yield and assuring more
concentrated fruit.
Mid palate, the wine continues
to open, revealing notes of red fruit, cherry, red plum, some kirsch and a hint
of white pepper. A touch of citrus lifts
the presentation. Body is medium and - it’s
Pinot Noir, remember - so tannins are silky.
The finish is medium and enriched with notes of dark chocolate. The wine should be drinkable through 2022, but
I doubt you’ll hold on to any that long.
Pinot is so perfect with duck
breast – sauced in a cherry reduction or a pomegranate and citrus glaze, or
duck confit. Enjoy this bottle with herb roasted pork tenderloin. Coq au vin is a natural. All sorts of
mushroom preparations work nicely (bruschetta?) Goose and quail work
nicely. For cheese, consider Brie on
toast with mushrooms. Want something lighter?
Pair this Pinot with a vegetable tart made of eggplant, tomatoes and
zucchini. Oregon Pinot often present a
cleansing acidity that makes it not just “food friendly” but food versatile;
brighter and less earthy. And you’ll
find this Pinot working nicely with wild caught Alaskan Sockeye Salmon also.
Cheers!
……………… Jim
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TECH SPECS AND ETC.
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Hand Picked & Sorted
Farming: Sustainable
Clones: Pommard, Wadenswil, Dijon 667,
777, 115, 114, 113,
ASW2, Mariafeld
Fermentation: Oak & Open-Top Stainless
Tank
(With Punch Down Up to 3x
Daily)
Ageing: 8 Months, French Oak (36% New)
ALC: 14.5%
ARP: $49
92 Points: Wine Enthusiast
91 Points: Wine Spectator
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