“Scores do not reveal the most important facts
about a wine. The written commentary (tasting notes) that accompanies the
ratings is a better source of information than any score regarding the wine’s
style and personality, its quality level relative to its peers, and its
relative value and aging potential.” – Robert M.
Parker, Jr
I love Grenache however
it is known. Garnacha in Spain, called Cannonau
in Sardinia. And wherever it’s from:
France, Spain, Italy, California, Australia - I’ve enjoyed them. Prices for cult unblended varietals and Grenache-blended
Châteauneuf-du-Pape can exceed $600 per bottle. But I can’t tell you anything about those because
I’ve never had one. What I generally enjoy are wines from $15-$50. “Enjoy” being a relative term and understood
to mean some more than others. What I
can say, definitively, is that at $12.99, I have enjoyed no Grenache more than
Tres Picos.
Bodegas Borsao is in
the Campo De Borja, a D.O. (Denominacion de Origin) in the province of
Zaragoza, Aragon in northeastern Spain. Written
records about winemaking in this region date back to 1203. Grapes are grown on bush-trained
vines averaging 35 – 60 years of age (with some dating back to the 1920s) on
stony clay and limestone soil on the slopes of the Moncayo Mountains at
elevations of 600 – 700 meters (1969 – 2297 ft.).
Garnacha (Grenache)
was the red wine grape of Spain, and
even in the late 20th century was the second most planted
world-wide. But with the European Union’s
pull scheme, by 2010, Garnacha had fallen to 7th place (4th
in Spain after Airen, Tempranillo and Bobal).
With Airen being a white wine grape for bulk and blending use, Tempranillo
became the new king of Spanish red and has been received well internationally. By some tastes, Tempranillo is less
rustic. And while I respect that all
palates are personal, I just can’t imagine Tempranillo being used as a blend in
Chateauneuf-du-Pape. There’s room for Garnacha. When I’m posed with the dilemma of being
marooned on an island and asked what one varietal I would chose, I answer “water”.
Pity our world should our choices ever be
limited to just a few grapes that corporate behemoths have analyzed as the most cost
effective to utilize.
Medium bodied wine,
Tres Picos is 100% Garnacha and bursting with cherry from the glass. Floral notes join aroma of red berries on the
nose. The cherry carries from the nose onto the
palate with tastes of licorice, blackberry and plum with hints of leather,
though cherry (for me) is dominant. The wine is silky textured with soft
tannins, juicy but made complex with garrigue and spice. A slight smoky minerality adds to the enjoyment.
This is not
intervention wine. Juice is aged in tank
and neutral French oak for ten months. This
is wine that begins in the farm on old vines properly managed for low yields (less
than two tons per acre) and sited in the best areas. Tres Picos means “Three Peaks.” And I’d have to say if Quality, Value and
Price were the three peaks of smart wine buying, Bodegas Borsa has achieved the
summit.
Salud!
………………. Jim
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ETCETERA
Bodegas Borsao: http://bodegasborsao.com/
Alc: 15%
Imported by: Atlas Imports LLC, Chicago IL.
Scores: 91 Wine Spectator
(Also Ranked #39 of “Top
100” 2016
90
Robert Parker
92
Vinous/Antonio Galloni
Not a one-hit wonder,
Tres Picos has a history of high scores with Parker assigning 91 points to its
2015, 90 for the 2013 and 92 for the 2012 vintage. With an ARP of $17, an amazing value.
Pairing: Just about
any red meat, beef or lamb. A grilled hanger steak, barbecued or not. Crostini
with trimmed pieces of short rib, Cambozola cheese and cherry jam.
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