“Remember,
gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s champagne!”
–Winston Churchill, British statesman and former Prime Minister of the United
Kingdom
Champagne is season less. While I may change my preference from red to
white wine, from Cabernet Sauvignon to Sauvignon Blanc depending on the season
and what I’m eating, I can enjoy Champagne in every season. In all weather. At all times. And, if I put some thought into it, I can
pair a Champagne to every meal. Each course!
But as with most wines
(remember the Merlot crash after “Sideways”?) Champagne too has its
trends. “Pet Nat” was hot. That alone is interesting given that Pétillant Naturel is an ancient
technique (méthode ancestral, otherwise known as rurale) of making sparkling wine and it
long pre-dates modern, twice-fermented Champagne. While I have no concerns with people preferring
the taste of wine that has not yet completed its first fermentation, has not
been disgorged and may not have been filtered, I’m not jumping on the hipster
bus just because some influential SOMM has discovered it in the 21st
century.
Another hot issue with
Champagne drinkers is Recolant-Manipulant,
known as “Grower Champagne.” These
bottles are identified by the abbreviation “RM” or the full wording on the
label. It refers to a grower who makes and markets Champagne under their own
label, from grapes of their own vineyards and processed on their own premises.
Conversely, the initials “NM” stand for Négociant-Manipulant. These are the large Champagne houses that
source a majority of their grapes rather than growing them.
Frankly, I’ve always been impressed by the wizardry of
these Merlin-like Master Blenders for these large houses. Working with different
growers, and perhaps even some estate grapes, and always different vintages, and
reserve wines, they develop a house style that remains consistent year after
year. Weather is variable. The wine is not. Such skill is to be admired; not brushed
aside casually because of a transient trend.
And as with still wines, grapes being estate grown is
no guarantee by itself that the wine will be superior to that made from sourced
grapes. While estate grown grapes
assure choice selection and other benefits, there are many wineries with huge
numbers of fans that make consistently highly awarded wines from grapes that
have been sourced. So, if I haven’t
blathered on too long already, let me just add that it’s really all about the
wine, not the fashion. It’s about what’s
inside the bottle. And it’s either good or it’s not. And most times, in these sophisticated times,
with all of technology’s exactness, it is - more so now than in the past.
I suppose that should position me well, or at least
objectively, on the subject of Grower Champagne. That said.
This wine is good. And its price
point (with an ARP of $42) is sounding the bargain gong. Perhaps the ARP has to do with the layers of
cost add-ons and not having to buy grapes.
And since I haven’t tasted all the Grower Champagnes out there, whatever
my opinion should not be extrapolated to cover all such labeling.
Bruno Michel also produces a Cuvee Blanche brut, which
I do think is the best value out there (at $39.99) for brut Champagne. But
that’s just my personal palate. With few exceptions, I prefer “white” over
rose. And if I find occasion to open his
Blanc de Blancs Cuvee “Pauline” (a vintage Champagne and aged in barrel), I
suspect I’ll be singing its praises too.
The rose is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Meunier from
the estate’s organic, biodynamic vineyards and made organically in the saignee winemaking method. In the
glass, its color is assertive as is its aroma.
Notes of rose and vanilla waft from the glass joined by a faint taste of
orange. Others enjoy tart cranberry,
pomegranate and spice. On the palate,
cherry and vanilla strike, followed by strawberry mid palate. Others enjoyed
raspberry joined by tastes carried from the aromas. This is very easy drinking and smooth. Unlike
his Cuvee Blanche, fruit dominates in the rose, subduing – even obstructing –
its autolytic character. There’s a clean
somewhat sweet lemon-lime hint (as in the soft drink) that make this wine
perhaps too easy drinking for me. But I
suspect it is also what would make it perfect for those who do not relish the
yeasty side of Champagne.
This is fresh, clean and fruity. Light and fun. Easy drinking. The snobs may translate these references as
pejoratives, but here it from me: it ain’t meant to be so. It is meant to describe a Champagne that
certainly does well as an aperitif, and pairs well too with a dessert made with
red berries or a crumble of rhubarb and strawberries. In between, consider it a natural for tuna,
shrimp, duck breasts sauced with cherries. A beet risotto course, roasted
chicken (red meat) or chicken sofrito (even better). Consider it the bottle you want to keep
chilled and at the ready when time is being strained by commitments and you
need to put things together quickly. A
simple plate of vegetables and dip, joined with another of fresh and dried
fruits, caramelized pecans and slices of cheese. In between, conversation and sips. Finish with a custardy tart with fresh
berries. Critics talk about
complexity. I found this wine a simple
joy. The innocence of just being happy
for a moment. Anything wrong with that?
Sante!
……………. Jim
Follow and like Wine Mizer on Facebook for
mini-reviews, industry news and more.
ETC.
Bruno Michel: http://www.champagnebrunomichel.com/en/portfolio-items/rose-2/
ALC: 12%
Imported By: Terraneo Merchants
RS 6g/L
No comments:
Post a Comment