Bear with me, please, while we go
through this exercise. I’m going to name
a country and ask that you respond with a wine associated with that
country. Don’t think about it. Just respond with the first thought that
comes to mind. There are no wrong answers because there are several correct
answers to each inquiry and each response (whatever it is) will be correct. So don’t get nervous about it. Hopefully, this will be fun.
Here we go:
1)
Red wine, Spain
2)
Italy
3)
Germany
4)
Portugal
5)
France
6)
The U.S.
7)
Sparkling Wine
How did you answer? May I guess? (I’ll be wrong too, there’s a lot
more of you than there are me).
1)
ollinarpmeT
2)
itnaihC
3)
gnilseiR
4)
troP
5)
xuaedroB
6)
dnelB deR
7)
ngiapmahC
O.K., the answers assumed are written
backwards so as not to spoil the exercise by tipping you off as to my
assumption. Obviously, each country produces
several wines and each country has several regions. You may have said “Rioja” (a
region) for #1, for example. You may
have said something else. In fact, as
for Italy, Chianti (#2) is most often a blend of varietals, even when made
within the Classicio DOCG. There are a
lot of variables in this mini-exercise, so before you send me “hate mail,”
consider the point.
If I asked you to associate a wine with Austria, what would you
say.
Many wouldn’t say anything.
Too bad.
As Riesling is to Germany, Gruner Veltliner is to Austria. But
somehow, the message didn’t get out.
Riesling is a grape. Gruner Veltliner is a grape and they are
different. Germany and Austria are also
different countries. As for the grape, Jancis Robinson (The Oxford Companion
to Wine) says “Gruner Veltliner can produce wines which can combine perfume
and substance. The wine is typically dry, full-bodied, peppery or spicy, and
with time in the bottle can start to taste positively Burgundian.”
There was no time in the bottle for
this 2016 Stadt Krems 2016. What there
was, however, was an amazing flux of coincidence. I invited myself to a visit with my brother
while he was recuperating at home from a medical procedure. He had some skinless brats made with mushroom
and Swiss cheese at the ready. I pickled some organic, rainbow radishes, made
red cabbage and procured German-style potato salad from a local (German) deli.
He suggested a Gruner Veltliner. I brought one along (and a Spatburgunder –
more on that later). Putting away my
Gruner in his wine refrigerator, I couldn’t help but notice he had the same
wine also at the ready and chilled. My
brother is not a certified wine snob.
And I don’t like to think I’m a snob, though certified. So the lesson to appreciate is that of Pliny
the Elder (who 2000 years ago) was correct when he said, “The best wine is that
which taste good to thine own palate.”
The Stadt Gruner certainly did that
for each us and a guest. And, at $13.99
(Binny’s Beverage Depot) I consider it a value. Consider Gruner as an
alternative to Albarino. It goes great with seafood (Snapper). Its bright acidity makes it food friendly
with so many foods. Pair it with smoked ham.
Go safe with “Wiener Schnitzel,” which is basically another version of
breaded veal. Play it against chicken
breast with rosemary and thyme. Have to have a wine with cheese? Consider
Camembert. Or bring a bottle to your favorite BYOB Asian food restaurant,
though if ordering spicy – stay with a sweeter Riesling (Spatlese). If it matters, know too that it’s one of the
few wines that will do well against artichokes and asparagus.
As for this bottle, (91 points Wine Enthusiast), I enjoyed grass (not
fresh cut) on the nose with hints (for me) of pineapple and fresh cut apple. Creamy
lime and faint lemon on the palate. Green herbs. Cleansing acidity. White
pepper hints. Lean and concentrated but
balanced expertly. This is a varietal
you need to explore if you too are to open new paths as Disney recommended. If you
claim to enjoy wine, you need to tastes grapes, after all, because it is grape
that becomes the best wine. And perhaps
this is a grape you haven’t explored yet.
If so, I’m happy to have been of help.
Prost!
…………… Jim
(The official language in both countries
is German and there is shared history. But they are different countries. So don’t get all technical on me. This is not
a history blog).
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one that speaks the truth as I see it.
TECH
SPECS & ETCETERA:
Color: Deep
Lemon Green in the glass
Imported By; Winebow Inc. (NY., NY)
Produced BY: Weingut Stadt Krems GrmbH
Varietal: 100% Gruner Veltliner
Region: Niederoesterreich, Austria
Fermentation: 17 Days, Stainless, 65 F
Fining: None
Aging: 4
Months
Additional 2 Months Bottle
ALC: 12.5%
RS: 3.2
g/L
Acidity: 6.7 g/L
SO2 126.0
mg/L
Grapes are hand harvested at
September’s end.
Weingut Stadt Krems was founded in
1452, but managed (since July 2003) by Fritz Miesbauer.
Note: Look for Gruner Veltliner from
the DACs of Austria from Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal, Wagram and Weinvertal. Kremstal is a DAC designation, which can only
use specified grape varieties considered the most outstanding and most typical
of the delineated region
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