“I guess when there is room to improve, and where there is the desire to
improve, improvement comes.”…. David McNeill
But some recoveries, in the minds of
those not injured, take longer than expected.
Then again, consumers were
injured buying over produced Soave. So too were the producers who remained
committed to making quality Soave throughout the responding consumer drought.
Soave is produced in Veneto (in NE) Italy
and made from the Garganega grape. Prior
to 1931, it was commonly referred to as “Petit Chablis,” so popular was the
wine within Italy. As Italian wine became more commonly available in the U.S.,
people liked it. A white wine, it has a Viognier-like
body and offers white stone-fruit and wildflower to the nose. Apple, some pear
and hints of almond and nectarine greet the palate. Easy drinking. Clean with mouthwatering acidity, it
entertains with an enjoyable see-saw of fruit sweetness opposing citrus
lightened with floral notes. What’s not
to like? A perfectly enjoyable,
reasonably priced wine suitable for moving from the patio table to the dinner
table.
In the 1960s, production of Soave could
not meet demand. Italy’s response was to
expand the zone from its original (Classico) 4200 hectares (4200 acres) to
7,000 hectares (17,297 acres). Instead
of the sloping vineyards near Verona with volcanic and limestone soils, lowland
areas with alluvial soils and some plots adjoining busy roads were included in
the new growing area. With the majority
of production being the responsibility of large cooperatives, growers were
incentivized by volume instead of quality.
Toward that end, Trebbiano Toscano, a grape vine producing bland grapes
but in abundant quantity, was used to drive up tonnage.
 |
| Ignore the "Blue Hue" on this label's color. My computer is having a snit and I didn't say anything to her to justify it! |
And then they discovered Pinot Grigio.
By the 1990s, it became obvious that
if Soave was going to remain, improvements needed to be made. They were. From
1998 to 2001, the Consorzio studied all aspects of the growing area and defined
51 distinctive crus. In the process, a quality pyramid was established with Soave
Superiore DOGC on the top, Classico DOC in the middle and then Soave DOC). Yields were restricted and minimum alcohol
levels established. Further, Trebbiano Toscano would no longer be allowed in
the blend. Today, Soave must contain at least 70% Garganega. Trebbiano di Soave (a.k.a. Verdicchio), Pinot
Bianco and Chardonnay may constitute 30%. Other grapes may also be used but
even combined may not exceed 5% of the blend.
Top end, quality producers continued
to produce the delicious, floral, fruity Soave of memory, some from single
vineyards, but consumers, even today, associate it with cheap wine made from a massive
output. It definitely suffers from an
image problem. Too bad: the grape
deserves better. Today’s wine of writing
is a DOC, modestly priced and a value.
In fact, because of the image problem, most Soave continues to be value
priced though not the same wine as that deserving the scorn of yesteryears.
Suavia Soave is from the Classico
(originally delineated) region. It is a
DOC, not DOCG, wine. As such, it’s in
the middle of the pyramid and offers excellent value on top of value. Pair it with pork and fowl. It goes
excellently with Baccala alla Vincentia or shrimp in a simple olive oil &
lemon juice sauce or clams with lemon and pepper. Try it with chicken breasts
stuffed with pesto and curd cheese. Or just enjoy a glass by itself on the deck
or patio after the day’s end when chores have been accomplished and you should reward
yourself. With an ARP of $14., (w/o
S&H), there’s room to spend on the meal.
This wine is 100% Garganega, allowing
you the bonus of learning the unblended varietal’s character. Expect notes of apple and pear that carry
onto the palate along with subtle notes of almond and white peach. Its texture (thanks to aging on the lees) is
rich and coating. It finishes with a cleansing minerality. Notes of jasmine and
tropical fruit but balanced by lemon zest acidity. A whispered hint of
herb. Everything you want in a quaffable
yet complex wine is in the glass. No
wonder the Italians loved it. And we
should reconsider these improvements and this wine. It is an inexpensive
experiment.
Salute!
…………….. Jim
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your individual and unique palate).
TECH
SPECS & ECTECERA:
Grapes: 100% Garganega
Harvesting: Manual
Fermentation: Steel Vat, 14 Days
Temp: 15-18C
(59-64.4F)
Malo? Yes,
But Only On A Small Portion (% Unknown)
Maturation: 5 Months On The Lees
Filtration: 1 Membrane Only
ALC: 12.5%
TA: 5.5g/L
Ph: 3.24
Yield: 4
Tons Per Acre (10 allowed)
Year Vineyard Planted: 1960
First Vintage: 1983
Soil: Calcareous
and Volcanic
Wine Enthusiast: 88 Points
James Suckling: 92 Points
Suavia Soave Classico https://www.suavia.it/wines/soave-classico/
Imported By: Winebow, Inc (NY, NY)
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