“Wine
is the only art work you can drink.” …… Luis
Fernando Olaverri
My
new favorite “slow food” is a grain (which I shouldn’t eat and
haven’t for several years). But it’s so tasty, I can’t resist treating myself
to a small portion occasionally: Organic brown basmati and wild rice cooked in
chicken broth with diced dried apricot and cranberry added and, later, slivered
almonds. Crunchy, sweet, savory – it’s got everything going for it. Paired it
with a mix of shrimp, shallot, sweet onion, garlic and red bell pepper grilled
stove top in walnut oil and served over grilled fresh pineapple then
served it all with snap peas.
The wine?
A 2014 (estate bottled from old vines) Weingut Nik Weiss - St. Urbans-Hof Riesling
from the Mosel Region in Germany. For me, Riesling from the Mosel is what best
expresses the grape and German Rieslings offer tremendous value. The ARP is
just $17, but look for current vintages. That year is no longer on the shelves.
Production quality, however, is consistent from St Urbans-Hof. Consider that
Nik Weiss (3rd generation winemaker) took over the winery in 1997 and by 2000,
the estate became a member of the prestigious VDP (Association of German
Praedikcat Estates). Then consider that the age of vines he uses in his estate
wines are at least 60 years of age.
Deep
lemon in the glass, the wine’s nose offers creamed lemon and butterscotch contrasted
against some chalkiness (a nice and unusual trick) and orange blossom. Pumped
and saved for the next day, the nose offered the added note of petrol and
elderflower. Riesling can develop notes of petrol when aged, but with this wine
being only four years from vintage, it was a genuine treat. Lemon on the palate
– not sharp, more like lemon curd. Semi dry, the wine worked beautifully
against the sweetened dried cranberry in the rice. Lime blossoms add delicacy.
Acidity makes it all crisp toward the finish that adds a hint of pineapple.
What a balancing act!
The
trend in Riesling is for dry wines (Troken) and I enjoy them. But trends don’t always suit the
circumstance. While not dry, this St.
Urbans-Hof is not sweet either. It’s not
even semi-sweet. Cleansing the palate
with a crisp finish, and best described as off-dry, it truly is an art work
that can be enjoyed in the glass. Pair with any moderately spiced dish.
Prost!
……………………..
Jim
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ETCETERA
ALC: 9.5%
Imported
By: Hb Wine Merchants (NY
NY)
Wine
Spectator 91 Points
Wine
Enthusiast 89 Points
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