"Wine offers a greater range for enjoyment and
appreciation than possibly any other purely sensory thing which may be
purchased." --- Ernest Hemingway
“Don Ernesto” (as Hemingway was called by the Spanish)
spent time travelling throughout that country to cover the civil war as a
reporter for The Alliance after
arriving there in 1937. No doubt, he
knew that the wine grape we call Mourvedre was known there as Monastrell.
Monastrell is a thick-skinned grape,
and the third most important (5th most planted grape) in Spain where
this wine is made. As I’ve often said,
Spain is bargain priced - especially for those looking to areas other than
Rioja and varieties other than Tempranillo.
And before that comment begins a heated one-way exchange, I should
explain that I’ve enjoyed (and still do) Bodegas Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva (from
Rioja and made from Tempranillo), their “Seleccion Especial” and other labels
and many other wines from Rioja. But as Merlot is to Cabernet Sauvignon,
Monastrell is to Tempranillo, meaning only they are both black grapes, they
both belong to vitis vinifera, they
each make good wine, but they’re different.
And it is that difference that keeps things interesting.
Like Cab with its thick skin,
Monastrell can throw tannins. It can
also contribute acidity. Whether you
call it Mourvedre (as in France) or Monastrell, that’s why it’s so frequently
used in red blends. But I love the
varieties. And I love when they are rendered unblended, or at least, not so
blended as to lose their unique personality in the process.
That brings us to Tarima With an ARP of less than $10, that’s a
difference in itself. Lots of Monastrell
is made in Spain. Most of it good. But at under $10, one wonders? Don’t. At this price point., it’s one of the
best wines I’ve tasted. Said another
way: It tastes higher than priced. Much.
Brandied plum, minty dark
chocolate, black currant on the nose. A hint of licorice and violet. The wine is silky with well-managed, though
evident, tannins and, up-front, announces black cherry. The palate then is greeted with contributions
of ripe black plum, vanilla and – on the finish – coffee. Other tasters refer to toast and leather,
with floral aromas and notes of grass on the nose. Still
others refer to blueberries and raspberries with notes of crushed chalk;
another – blackberry with a “meaty” note.
I got “oak” but another “smoke” (same thing?). Regardless, all the oak used in aging this
wine is used and neutral wood.
Regardless again, this wine is obviously complex. And to think I found
it at $8.99 only makes me regret I didn’t buy more.
I was so impressed with the
quality to price ratio of this wine, I did a little checking. Seems Bodegas Volver Tarma has a history of
being awarded scores in the 90s for many years. This one earned 91 from Robert Parker. James Suckling gave it 92 points for the
2016. Of course, I didn’t know that when
I bought the wine. I didn’t know that
when I tasted the wine. But I knew it
tasted like it deserved such scores however.
And that it did so under $10 affirms that this wine is a value among a
country of values.
Pair it with grilled beef or
sausage, lamb kabobs or braised short ribs.
The short ribs remind me that many people enjoy this wine with acidic red
sauced pasta dishes and pizza. The best
pairing, however, will be found in buying more than just one bottle of this
wine.
Salud!
……………… Jim
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TECH
SPECS & ETC.
Bodegas Volver
Country: Spain
Region: Levante,
Murcia
Appellation: Alicante
(D.O.) S.E. Spain
Grape Varietal: 100%
Monastrell
Aging: Used
Oak and Stainless, 6 Months
ALC: 14.5%
ARP: $9.00
U.S.
Imported By: Garnacha
Ltd. Bensenville, IL
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