“The best wine is
that which tastes good to thine own palate.” Pliny the Elder, Roman
Historian
“… but that depends
on when you taste it.” ….. James McMillan
I had an opportunity to taste
three different varietals of Santa Julia from Mendoza, Argentina, each being
made 100% from the named varietal. The
occasion presented itself due to the winery and importer/marketer electing to
change the bottles’ labels and the importer/marketer asking if I was interested
in a tasting the wines. Looking to acknowledge a younger generation of
consumers being more desirous of organically produced wines, Santa Julia chose
to prominently feature the wording “Made with Organic Grapes” on the labels of
those bottles. Many vineyards/wineries
practice organic viniculture, often because their location provides them an
opportunity to do so. Santa Julia in
Mendoza, Argentina is one, though, I admit, not everyone …. not even most do
so. Santa Julia has been certified as an
organic winery since 2001. They produce
a selection of entry-label organically produced wines suitable for everyday
enjoyment, priced friendly to one’s budget, as well as reserve and other
varietals.
The new labels are now
featured on all five of Santa Julia Organica wines: Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Chardonnay, Tempranillo and a Malbec rose. (The website for Santa Julia also
refers to Torrontes, and a Sangiovese/Bonarda blend). My own
impression is that these budget friendly wines, made without intervention of
wood, are geared also to today’s consumers who prefers lighter, more casually
enjoyed wines (but that’s only my impression).
Aside from the marketing material, or the “read” on today’s consumer (a
most difficult undertaking), or focus groups, or the graphic design experts
that advise on labeling impact, my concern has always been involved with what’s
inside the bottle.
I had concerns.
But they were allayed.
I “get” that their 2018 CHARDONNAY is made without
oak. No oak fermentation. No oak aging. No staves. Not even chips. Pure, clean, zesty Chardonnay. Lots of people prefer it. Sure,
I enjoy both oaked and steel styles, but respect there are people that are
entrenched firmly in each camp. I want
some oak with certain seafood and lobster, but if you don’t, why should that
bother me? Besides, French oak costs
money. Aging in oak costs money (storage is rent is more expense is more price).
Chardonnay aged in steel with no intervention costs less and makes sense for some
of today’s consumers, especially those looking for lighter, “cleaner” less
influenced wines. I found it zesty with
lime citrus dominant and a crisp finish. Tasting three wines, I vacuum pumped
and sealed the bottle for another day’s tasting. Most impressive? The wine held up remarkably. The citrus
softened on day 2 and 3; became creamier and incorporated some lemon. Would
pair well with oysters, but not on the shell.
Better balanced against Oysters Rockefeller with the lime balancing the
Pernod. Want to keep it simple? This wine would work beautifully against a
herb roasted chicken. Tasters commented
also on the wine offering aromas of green apple, pear and pineapple.
TECHS: ALC: 14%, TA:
6.0 g/L RS: 3.50 g/L
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017: (Lighter colored in the glass than what you would expect from a Cab). Raspberry,
cassis, green pepper and plum on the nose.
The red plum and raspberry carry on to the palate joined with notes of
cherry. Other tasters get sweet, candied
prune. With skin maceration for 10 days,
and no oak, this (for me) is a light Cab that wine drinkers preferring a lighter-styled,
easy drinking red might find appropriate especially in hotter weather and at
casual picnics and barbeques. Heretical,
perhaps, but so light, you may want to serve slightly chilled.
TECHS: ALC: 13.5%
TA: 5.70 g/L RS: 4 g/L Skin Maceration 10 Days 
MALBEC 2017: Is there a
“bad” Malbec from Mendoza – even at $12?
Darker in the glass than the Cab,
this thick-skinned grape offers
more body despite it not being oak aged or fermented. Frankly, I didn’t expect
much. Frankly, I was surprised. Opened
(twist-off) and poured, it was Malbec.
But what amazed me was how this inexpensive wine held up; actually
getting better overnight and even into the day following. All the fruit softened and rounded and came
forward but balanced and pleasingly so. While I would certainly acknowledge
that it was drinkable immediately, I have to say I was blown away by how
enjoyable it became over the days. And I found it amazing that the wine was not
aged in oak – further destroying my pre-conceived view (always a pleasure and a
learning opportunity). Ripe, red plum,
raisin, fig, medium bodied and simply very tasty.
TECHS: ALC: 13.5% TA: 5.5 g/L RS:
4.0 g/L Skin Maceration 10 Days
ETC: Grapes are from 100% Certified Organic
Vineyards in Maipu. Produced &
Bottled by Bodega Santa Julia http://www.santajulia.com.ar/en/ Other Vineyards in Valle de Uco and Santa
Rosa.
Imported By: Winesellers, Ltd.
Niles, IL. (USA) http://www.winesellersltd.com/ Bodega Santa Rosa produces also Merlot,
Syrah, Tempranillo, Sauvignon Blanc and other wines in both Reserve and
non-Reserve labeling and others not identified as organic.
Salud!
…………….. Jim
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