“Chianti improves with age. The older I get, the better I like it”. … Author Unknown
This
2011 “Chianti Station” from Seghesio Family Vineyards has done nothing
but get better with time in the bottle since I bought it at the vineyard in
2014, and it’s drinkable though another year. Seghesio makes many wines, being
famous for Zinfandel (“Home Ranch”). Called “Primitivo” in Italy, Zinfandel is
a grape the Italian immigrants were familiar with when they settled in Central
California in 1881. Sangiovese, the principal grape of Chianti, is another
varietal those same early Italian immigrants were familiar with.
“Chianti
Station” is a vineyard in the Alexander
Valley sub-AVA within the
Sonoma County AVA. The grapes (Sangiovese and Canaiolo) were first planted in
“Chianti Station” by the Seghesio family in 1910. They had been growing grape
vines in Sonoma since 1895. At $48, when
I bought it at the winery, it was an expensive proposition, but delicious and
interesting. The field blend used in producing “Chianti Station” may be
comprised of (mostly) Sangiovese with Canaiolo and some Trebbiano and Malvasia
(the latter two no longer allowed in the Chianti Classico District of Italy
since 2006).
As
the oldest planting of Sangiovese in North America, these are definitely “old
vines” yielding concentrated fruit. Some of the wine’s charm comes from
Canaiolo, another Tuscan varietal and used in Italy still for making Chianti
(which now allows a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah). Despite
temperature and growing conditions in Tuscany being similar to those in
Alexander Valley, I found “Chianti Station” (while similar to the Chianti from
Italy’s Classico Zone and seven sub-zones) deeper and richer in style. You
might say, with the inclusion of whites from a field blend, that it’s more “old
world” than that even from the Old World! An interesting mix of both classic
and new world styles, “Chianti Station” offered aromas of black & red
raspberry, cinnamon and white pepper. On the palate: Roasted tomato, leather,
cherry and clove. ARP for the 2011 vintage, now unavailable, was $79. Look for
newer vintages. Better yet: Take a “WineCation” and
visit the winery in Healdsburg,
California. ALC: 14.8% P.S. Remember what your mother taught you:
eat your greens too!
Cheers! (Salute!)
………………….. Jim
Seghesio Family Vineyards
700 Grove St, Healdsburg, CA 95448
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