“Anni e bicchieri di vino non si contano mai” (“Age and glasses of
wine should never be counted”) …..
an Italian Proverb
Sometimes
the “pro” reviewers and I agree. Sometimes we don’t, or I may think a wine has been
over or under rated. But this wine is
one on which everyone agrees. A 2006 Brunello di Montalcino from Uccelliera (Azienda Agricola Uccelliera). If you’re
unfamiliar with Brunello, know that it is made from Sangiovese, that same grape that makes for the Chianti you so enjoy.
Brunello
di Montalcino indicates it is of Montalcino. Montalcino is south of Chianti in Tuscany and
it is its own DOCG. The climate is
warmer, producing grapes that are riper (and with the potential for higher
alcohol). Being grown at higher
altitude, berries are smaller producing thicker grapes with a higher skin to
pulp ratio and, therefore, wines with more tannin.
Brunello
also has different aging requirements than does Chianti (even its DOCG). These
are not wines to drink now. But are they
worth the wait? Oh yes! Deep purple in the glass and taking on coppery
age tones at the rim, the nose on this Uccelliera is strong with brandied black
cherries and fresh-cut, purple plum with a hint of green pepper. The palate is immediately alerted with tart
cherry but smooths out soon, and with air the texture becomes pure glycerin.
Black cherry develops, notes of dried fruit and sweet tobacco contrast herbaceous
hints. Others get strawberry and
raspberry. Complex, focused, precise and incredibly delicious. I allowed it an
hour in the bottle and another in the decanter and it could have used even
more, but didn’t hold up well for the next day despite being vacuum
pumped. Nonetheless, a pleasure to
experience and next time, I’ll just have to finish the bottle.
I served it with a simple green salad,
basil-pesto stuffed chicken breasts and a side of zucchini cooked with sweet
onion and tomato. (The harvest of my and
my friend’s garden calls and I answer). But
mostly, I intended to enjoy this wine today and mostly I cooked what I had on
hand. As a rule, Sangiovese compliments all such tomato rich dishes and whatever
the meal is, it is elevated by Sangiovese. This particular Sangiovese wine lifted it
almost out of reach!
Salute!
………….. Jim
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palate).
Note:
90 Points James Suckling, 96 Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 94 Wine Enthusiast 93 Wine Spectator. Drinkable 2014-2026. ARP at time of purchase $56 (now $72) found
as a close out for $50. Imported by
deGrazia Imports LLC (Winston-Salem NC).
ALC: 15%.
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