“Of oil, wine, and friends, the oldest.” ….. Portuguese Proverb
Let’s move on to unfairly neglected Portugal. Wine from Portugal
is generally inexpensive and offers numerous bargains to be enjoyed. As a rule,
the wine is delicious, different and, for me, a necessary transition into each
fall season. Funny how those grapes grown in the Dao, south of Oporto,
surrounded by mountains more in Portugal’s interior and with a more continental
climate, make for wine that is so incredibly appropriate for fall in my
cool-continental climate area. Each year, I mark this change of the seasons
with wine from Portugal.
This 2014 Cabriz's Colheita Seleccionada Red (they also
make a white) exemplifies why: Full bodied, textured, the mouthfeel of
Portuguese wine is itself a marker in any blind tasting. Consider the grapes:
20% Touriga Nacional – the grape of port wine, 20% Tinta Roriz (grown
extensively in Portugal but you may know it better as Spain’s Tempranillo) and
40% Alfrocheiro (a grape suspected to be native to Portugal, mostly grown in
the Dao and noted for its velvety texture and spice). Branded by Cabriz, this
wine is deep purple, from extracted fruit, in the glass and offers aromas of
earthy blackberry compote with a note of kirsch.
As with all Portuguese wines, it coats the palate. Plum becomes
prune-like with raisin and includes notes of blackberry jam. Flavors are
concentrated with dark cherry, dry but juicy, along with dried raspberry.
Seamlessly mixed with the plum/prune, these flavors are more roasted than fresh
and are perfect for fall. Some violet completes the complexity, though other
tasters got white chocolate and licorice. We all agreed on notes of pepper and
herbs, though for me – more herbs and less pepper. Most impressive: the wine holds up in the bottle easily for 2,
even 3 days without losing any of its appeal. In fact, the taste actually took
on more of a fresh fruit character on the second day.
The ARP for this wine is ridiculous at $9 and it can be found
for even less. It was ranked #46 as one of the top 100 wines of 2016 by Wine
Spectator, awarded 90 points and also rated as a “Best
Value.” Wine
Enthusiast assigned it 87
points, referring to it being “ripe, full of black fruit” and “rich and fruity,
soft tannins with full bodied structure”. I mention this because I too found
the tannins VERY soft as opposed to a very few other tasters. Of course, all
palates are personal: some tasters referred to “forest fruits” (I agree) but
also “fresh red fruit” (I found it more roasted and black initially). All that
aside, the wine itself is delicious and, for me, perfect as fall announces
itself. And, at less than $10, it is not to be missed. I’d even call it “case
worthy”. Imported (locally) by Tri
Vin Imports. ALC: 13%. Bottled by Global
Wines, Inc.
Viva!
Saude! Tchim-tchim!
……………………………… Jim
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