“Wine is sure proof that God
loves us and wants us to be happy!” …. Benjamin Franklin
Two
words: Kabaj (the producer) and Rebula (the grape) both from Slovenia. The grape is better known elsewhere as
Ribolla Gialla. So, excepting when “Rebula”
(Re-bohla) refers to the brand name on the label of the wine produced by Kabaj
(Ka-bye), the grape will be identified here as Ribolla (and I’ll assume you’ll
remember the Gialla part).
Regarding
Slovenia, it abuts Italy on the north and eastern side of the Adriatic Sea. The
grape originated in Greece and came to Slovenia (where it is known as Rebula)
through Italy. Ribolla is grown in
Rosazzo and in Oslavia within Italy’s Friuli. But even more (much more) is grown on the
eastern side of the border in Slovenia within the areas of Vipava and Goriska
Brda. Kabaj’s vineyards are in Goriska Brda, 15 miles from the Adriatic and on
the foothills of the Alps. Throughout
Slovenia, Rebula is known as “The Queen of Brda” where the vines thrive in the
slate and sandstone soil of the hilly, sun-enriched terrain where the remains
of an ancient seabed enriched the soil with marl and flysch.
Medieval
records dating back to 1256 mention that Rebula had already been planted in
Goriska Brda’s vineyards. Later, under
Soviet rule in the late 1940s, profitable family enterprise was not encouraged and
vineyards had little motivation to modernize having become state run. Slovenia gained independence in 1991. Indigenous
grapes were replanted. But by then, Italy, just to the west, and many other
countries both in the “old” and “new” worlds had long established a solid
foothold in the global marketplace.
Wines from eastern Europe remained and remain today largely unfamiliar in
the U.S.
Too
bad. Because “Rebula” from Kabaj is such a versatile wine and so tasty. It’s a white wine. And it is made with
extended skin contact so you’ll find some that refer to it as an “orange” wine. Ignore that. While I enjoy orange wine, most
U.S. consumers do not. It’s only within
the last few years, after all, that we’ve come to gleefully quaff Rose in
significant numbers. The extended skin contact (30 days) that Jean-Michel Morel
employs in making Rebula presents a wine resulting more in texture than in
color. And despite the extended skin
contact, this wine retains a freshness and lively acidity and offers a
cleansing finish.
 |
| A Tasting of Different Vintages of Kabaj's Rebula |
In
the glass, it shows deep gold (think oaked Chardonnay). Aromas of lychee, stewed apricot and orange
pith dominate - accompanied by hints of straw, soy sauce and petrol. On the
palate, expect a mélange of lemon and passion fruit with notes of saffron and
unsweet peach. The wine is weighty: medium plus, again like an oaked
Chardonnay. But aging is in neutral wood
(not new oak) so the fruit remains fresh and lively. By all means, chill the wine, but I recommend
that you allow it to warm some outside the refrigerator before serving (yet
again – like an oaked Chardonnay). Doing this will introduce even more
taste-treats particularly on the finish.
I enjoyed a compote of banana, black olive, clove and the slightest
suggestion of mint on the end taste. Other
tasters note juicy pineapple, honeycomb, roasted hazelnuts, vanilla, chai tea
and anise. All palates are personal and
correct for the person owning it.
Suffice to say, this is a complex wine.
 |
| Versatile? Yes! The Textured Body of Kabaj's Rebula Pairs Well Against The Ranch Style Dip on this Simple Crudites Platter. |
 |
| Grilled Shrimp (Sometimes With Diced Ham, But Here With Peruvian Peppers). Rebula Was a Perfect Pairing. |
For
good reason. Bordeaux trained oenologist
Jean-Michel Morel, after spending time also in cellars in Languedoc and Collio
Italy, married Katja Kabaj of the Kabaj estate in Slovenia. And thus was blended a mix of French and
Italian sensibilities into Slovenian vineyards that had withstood the test of
time and had been producing quality wine for generations. With his fondness of working with amphorae,
Jean-Michel demonstrated that his agenda in Slovenia was simply to make the
best wine possible. Ribolla (Gialla) had
been successful in Italy and Rebula was considered to be its ancestor.
There
are so many grapes that are not classified as “noble” or considered
“international.” The former seems to be
those dictated by governing authorities as authorized for use in the making of
wine from particular appellations. The latter applies to wine grapes grown
worldwide; having benefited from marketing and winning popularity contests. In
a which came first “chicken or the egg” fashion, was it the marketing that
created the grapes popularity or the fact that the grape could be grown in so
many areas that created its popularity?
Ribolla/Rebula
is not an international grape, but for me has made a wine that is indeed
“noble” in the glass. And with so many
indigenous grapes just wanting to become vinified, why limit your enjoyment and
learning experiences to only those “international”? Ben would be ashamed.
na zdravje!
……………….Jim
 |
| Chicken Cordon Bleu and Couscos Prepared in Chicken Stock With a Drizzle of Maple Syrup and Finished in Threads of Saffron. Kabaj's Rebula: Food Friendly & Versatile. |
Follow and like Wine Mizer on Facebook for
mini-reviews, industry news and more.
winemizer.net does not
accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard,
importer or distributor. You may be assured that any opinions are not
economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and
unique palate).
SEE BELOW FOR TECH SPECS
 |
| A Different Producer's Rebula From Slovenia. As You Can See From Its Color, This One Is Orange. |
TECH SPECS:
Producer: https://www.kabaj.si/en/wine
Country: Slovenia
Appellation: Goriska Brda
Vineyards: Belo-Vhr &
Neblo-Vhr
Altitude: 500-820 ft.
Slope: South
Soil: Sandstone,
Slate, Marl, Flysch
Climate: Sub-Mediterranean
Varietal: Rebula, 100%
Age
of Vines: 40
Years
Farming: Sustainable
Harvest: By Hand, End
of September
Fermentation/Aging: With Wild (Native) Yeast
In
2400 Liter Neutral Oak, 30 Days Skin Contact, Followed
By
Malolactic in Barrel and 12 Months Aging old Barrique and
4
Months in Bottle.
ALC: 12.5%
RS: 2.1
g/L
Acidity: 5.54 g/L
Imported
by: TerraneoMerchants
ARP: $22.
(U.S.)
Ageing
Potential: 7-10 Years (Varies by Conditions)
Scores:
James
Suckling: 92
Wine
& Spirits 93
Wine
Enthusiast: 89
Note:
“Rebula”
literally means “re-cooking,” a reference to the grape’s natural tendency to
participate in secondary (malolactic) fermentation and contributing to the
wine’s creaminess with a rounded mouthfeel. In malolactic fermentation, which can be
induced or just naturally allowed, tart malic acid is converted into softer
tasting lactic acid.
|
No comments:
Post a Comment