I enjoy Champagne. You might say I LOVE it. But Champagne, by definition, is only made from the grapes of that region within France. It excludes Crémant (also French). It excludes Metodo Classico. It does not allow Cava. Nor is Sparkling Wine allowed membership. It is - that of Champagne which I crave - expensive and, so for me, not presently allowed as an everyday enjoyment. But to do without “tasting the stars” is inconceivable.
Then again, some
of the best French food is of the bistro sort.
And some of the most enjoyable French wines are those of the Loire. “Relaxability”. Casual but elevated. And so comes Gerard Bertrand of the Languedoc-Roussillon
in the south of France. Blending
Chardonnay (70%), Chenin Blanc (15%) and Pinot Noir (15%), with the first and
last grapes mentioned being those used in Champagne and with the wine being
twice fermented in the bottle (as in Champagne) but with an ARP of only $20,
there are differences and differences both to be appreciated.
I’ve enjoyed
other of Gerard Bertrand’s still wines before.
So did Thomas Jefferson who stocked his cellar with sparkling wines (Crémant)
from the area (Limoux) in Southwest France.
In fact, Limoux was the first area in France to work with sparkling
wine. And it was Don Perignon who
learned from the monks there at St Hilaire Abbey about making such wine. It is that
area in Southwest France, where the technique of making sparkling wines was first perfected.
Of course, the climate is different in Southwest
France than that of Champagne in Northeast France. But Bertrand’s vineyards are maintained in
the highest elevations of the area with cool nights assuring the cleansing
acidity in the grapes that is so necessary for making quality bubbly.
All the tech
aside however, always it comes to what is inside the bottle and I can tell you
this. My son and his significant other
joined me for dinner. I put together a
simple meal plan, casual – but elevated. It began with an appetizer of slices
of organic tomato, buffalo mozzarella, fresh leaves of basil and a reduction of
balsamic di Modena. Altogether, there
were to be five courses and five wines.
I expected to put aside several bottles for enjoyment later. I was
wrong. The Gerard Bertrand “Thomas
Jefferson” Crémant De Limoux Brut Rose remained on the table in a chiller and
was quickly emptied. That’s a strong
endorsement – not just my opinion.
Casual, but
elevated. And so quickly emptied.
Apparently, by
unanimous agreement.
Salmon-pink in
the glass, it produces fine bubbles and a delicate mousse. Its texture is rich
and surprisingly creamy. Aromas of red
fruit (strawberry and raspberry) seduce. On the palate raspberry carries over
from the nose. The strawberry is elevated with notes of cream. Toasted bread from lees aging adds
complexity. But for people put off by
Champagne with pronounced notes of yeast (brioche etc.), this is not that. Casual,
but elevated, the wine’s components work in synergy and balance; each element
contributing unobtrusively toward a whole that is pleasing. Citrus is joined with floral notes. Fruit is evident and creamy, but the wine has
spot-on acidity rendering a crisp finish that lasts.
Against the
creamy soft Buffalo Mozzarella, the wine matched in texture while also serving
to cleanse the palate of that richness.
Dinner aside, it’s great to enjoy by itself. Chocolate dipped raspberries would be fun.
Brie cheese a natural. Ham croquettes, prosciutto, smoked salmon, sushi, mushrooms
stuffed with crab, devilled eggs finished off with caviar, pates, tapenade,
salad Nicoise. The acidity of a Rose
Crémant makes it naturally food friendly. Gerard Bertrand makes it
affordable.
Sante!
................. Jim
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NOTE: The monks
of St. Hilaire discovered the first “wine with bubbles” in 1531. The vineyards
used in making Gerard Bertrand’s Thomas Jefferson Rose are on the foothills of
the Pyrenees where the grapes benefit from cool conditions. Wine is blended together and then transferred
to barrel for 8 months. Imported by Wine
West, LLC (Sausalito, CA). ALC:12.5%
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